24 July, 2019 at 06:50 #63004
Well guys my props exploded on my maiden flight! I noticed the ccw and cw props have different finishes from each other. ccw shinny and cw mat. Both cww exploded! cw was fine.
24 July, 2019 at 19:02 #63010
- This reply was modified 1 year, 6 months ago by flacke.
After watching the video, i believe that there is a strong chance that the tail rotor collided with something “loose” or “protruding” on your copter. The damaged blade was then thrown into the prop ahead of it. Have a good look at the video and you’ll see a point in the flight ( 20 secs in ) that the copter suddenly lurches before oscillating badly. My guess is that whatever that thing on the back is maybe responsible for the prop strike. If not that, then the prop smacked the top of the Servo as it Yaw’d over. (Prop flex allows for greater chance of impact) I’ve seen this happen before on one of my flights and since then i make sure to have ample clearance.
Beyond all of that, the HQ props are known to be very fragile. Which is why (whenever possible) i use DAL props instead. Sure the efficency will take a hit but the props are able to take some abuse before failing.
Edit: We can assume that everything was installed correctly? (Right direction and prop facing etc.)24 July, 2019 at 21:49 #63012
Any chance you can post close-up pictures of the Tail-Mechanism, Servo and surounding hardware?
For the time being, swap to a set of DAL props. The 6” props are really smooth.
However if you have your heart set on running 8” props, these MAS makes some of the best.
https://www.masterairscrew.com/25 July, 2019 at 04:02 #63017
The same thing happened again today with the other set that came with the LR. I thought the same thing initially but there is nothing to hit and no damage, scuffs, nothing. I plug in the XT60 under the trailing arm so there is no slack there and the balance connector is to a voltage alarm on the frame. I would believe however that one prop took out the other. And, that CW prop that has a mat finish to it is still perfect. It’s the shinny ones that “failed”.25 July, 2019 at 06:25 #63020
It seems they broke at the same place ?`
What’s the brand ? Well known one ?25 July, 2019 at 07:48 #63021
Exact same break. They were the HQ that come with the LR, the shinny ones not mat finish. I ordered some MAS as suggested by Kevin_Erik. Here’s the video, props go at 27 seconds. As a testament to Gopro Hyper-smooth it definitely smooths out those vibes I was getting in the Runcam 2. FPV feed is nice and smooth and looked beautiful (I soft mount my cameras). I need to learn how to fly this thing, but when I do it’s going to be so much fun!25 July, 2019 at 08:22 #63025
Very strange. It would be interessant to know if others have the same issue with those props …
Your LR seems to fly clean. Which PIDs settings do you use actually ?25 July, 2019 at 08:34 #63026
I use yours! LOL. Thanks by the way.25 July, 2019 at 09:15 #63027
Ok. Just wanted to know if you fine tuned them a little bit …
Now I’m no more with Betaflight, but use the copter firmware integrated in the Graupner Falcon12 receiver, and surprisingly the same PIDs values work fine !25 July, 2019 at 09:39 #63028
Ok, after watching the second video, I’m no longer 100% sure its a prop strike. The propeller appears to become increasingly unbalanced over a short period of time. Starting around 22-24 Seconds with complete failure at 26-27 Seconds. Granted this could still be the result of the propeller briefly contacting something yet it’s hard to know for sure without the GoPro watching the Tail-Mech in flight.
IMO There can be a few things (possibly) wrong here…
* Props are fake HQ’s, hence why some are glossy and the others not. (not likely but it can happen)
* Props were damaged before installation. Mostly likely the result of being left somewhere excessively hot for an extended period of time. (Good props should bend in your hands but not fracture)
* Servo travel is excessive in some way. Please physically recheck the Servo limits.
* Prop is “briefly” contacting the Servo top (Tab) or the Zip-ties. Unlike what you may think, such contact isn’t guaranteed to leave a mark.
Please move the zip-tie lock joints to the opposite side of the Servo and trim that Servo Tab off. Then try another flight with the GoPro facing the Servo. This time, mark up the underside of the propeller with yellow / orange Crayola crayon. This way if it impacts, the crayon will rub off on what ever the prop touches. (Like finger prints)
Still it would be worth contacting David at this point and Forward him videos of both your flights. Odds are he may have a solution for you I haven’t though of or outright replace the Props. https://rcexplorer.se/support
Edit: If you notice in both videos the copter is making a right turn during prop failure. Which means the Tilt-Mech and Prop is off to the left side of the Servo. (or directly over it) Check the left side for scuffing and then recheck the prop clearance for that side. Keep in mind that the props do flex significantly in flight due to the prop length and material. Hence what would be good clearance on the bench may not work in flight. I use silicone dampeners on my motors which raises them up approx 1 mm. While this inst much, who knows, it could help.
Kevin26 July, 2019 at 19:27 #63033
As far as the servo tilt limits are concerned; I have the servo limits programmed into my Tx not on the FC (if that’s possible). Could the FC be using max servo throws?
The props are breaking 14-20mm (3/4″) from the ends and no damage near where the servo is. With extreme flex using my hand I can not get the props to touch anything.
Props on motors 1 and 3 are breaking. During a turn to the right (cw) wouldn’t motor 3 (ccw) spin up to a high rpm to stabilize? That could be the point of failure where the prop reaches the highest rpm of the flight and fails? While the tail motor is tilted presenting a large target for the debris.
I have a few different props on order to experiment with. If it happens with another brand. I will do the crayon test and video the props. Thanks for your help!
27 July, 2019 at 12:20 #63044
- This reply was modified 1 year, 6 months ago by flacke.
you have effectively to set the servo limits in Betaflight, not in your tx. Otherwise it can go beyond, as Betaflight can’t know the servo limits from the tx.
Servos limits in the tx will only keep the servo in those limits when orders come from you, not from the FC…31 July, 2019 at 19:11 #63094
I have everything setup correctly in Betaflight now with the tail and it is flying nicely, no broken props! Thanks a lot guys!
I am having problems with my mag now. The compass is off by at least 45 degrees and won’t calibrate anymore accurately than that. The home arrow and OSD compass are incorrect so I haven’t had a chance to check the RTH function. Everything else with the GPS works well.
Also, I fly crossfire and my RSSI is bad. Dropping to 15% at about 1000 feet away with 500mW. My Immortal T is setup like swissfeek has in front bellow the camera. Any suggestions with that?10 August, 2019 at 20:05 #63310wovParticipant
I finished my Tricopter LR build yesterday, after ordering the full package from David incl. emax 2207 1600kv, KakuteF4V2, etc. I really was planning to give dRonin a try (it was my first try) but after some hours I simply gave up and switched to Betaflight. The thing is, I am so comfortable with Betaflight and the available settings, I just wanted to get the thing in the air and maybe try again later.
To my surprise, after some PID tuning of the Yaw servo it is actually a very good flying Tricopter. It is by far not as solid on the tail as a racing quad with betaflight and all bells and whistles, but it is also by far the best Tricopter I have ever flown.
I setup the tail PIDs quick and dirty flying LOS in my garden with two 3s 4000mAh batteries, giving me plenty of juice to fly long and really feel the differences made. Now, I had to smile when I found this thread and especially Claude’s PIDs which are quite close to what I have found today with my TriLR.
But judging from your dump/diff, you are also not using the feedback from the servo, correct? Bugger, I really wanted to see how much this feedback changes on the flying characteristics of a Tri.
Maybe you have an idea what was the reason for my dRonin problems. The final nail in the coffin was the fact that the tail motor wasn’t running right when I armed the Tri. It was perfect when I tested it from the motor page, the idle speed was def. high enough, but as soon as the PIDs had their say, the motor sounded like one of the windings burned out and got really hot.
After switching to Betaflight the exact same motor/esc combo was perfectly fine and has been in the air without a problem for almost 2 hours. There was something not right in dRonin, but I followed David’s setup video to every single point (I had to without a clue about dRonin, as it was my first time).
When I could not find the mode “Tailtune” in my dRonin which David shows in the video, I gave up.15 August, 2019 at 21:35 #63355SaschaParticipant
i’m back again.
now i had also taken the time to make my PID’s go a bit better.
for now i am flying on 70×30 triblade props because my biblades gave a lot of vibrations.(i dont have the rig to balance them right)
but i have an issue that i cant solve: when i fly straight on it starts to wobble in the yaw axis.
has somebody an idea how to solve it?
here is a video with my latest tunes
- The forum ‘Everything about the Tricopter LR’ is closed to new topics and replies.