Better Motors?

[Tiernan85]

Hi guys, currently I’m running the recommended NTM 900kv motors. They do work, but the bearings in two of them are horrible. I’ve just been flying as is but it’s now something I’d like to replace. I dont want to get more of these again so does anyone have an idea on similarity spec’d motors that are a bit more high quality?

Thanks.

[rue]

Have very positive experience with those two:

Sunnysky V2216 1100kv (http://www.dronematters.com/index.php/sunnysky-v2216-1100kv-brushless-motor.html)

T-Motor MT 2212 11 1100kV (http://www.readytoflyquads.com/ht-450-motor-mt-series-vk)

Both are available as 900kV options if you prefer larger props and run very smooth.

[mcan]

I know this is not the answer of your question but if you have problems with just the bearings I think changing them could be cheaper for you.

If you should be interested in changing the bearings you should know there are required two kinds of them for NTM 28-26s motors:

3x7x3 mm
3x8x4 mm

I ordered 3x7x3 mm bearings on hobbyking and I received them today. Since hobbyking didn’t stock the 3x8x4 mm I had to look for other solutions and I found them on ebay.

I hope I could help you.

[mcan]

This video could help you maybe.

You will probably need new clips too. In shaft set they are allready included.

[Tiernan85]

Thanks fellas for both suggestions. I may very well order some bearings first and just replace them in the two motors for now. And I have some good motor options if I choose that route later on now. Thanks.

[rue]

Think this is the way to go! Happy flying!

[chrisdavidson152]

Thanks for the recommendations as I won’t be purchasing another NTM motor after my experiences.

[cenko]

I had no real trouble with my NTM 900kv motors on my 4s Tri. But I removed the play the motorbells had before using them. David W. mentioned this in one of the Flitetest podcasts (afterhours i think): Slightly relase the grub screw holding the motorshaft, and tap gently (!) on the motorshaft from the buttom with the help of a screwdriver and a hammer and then tighten the grubscrew again. Any play of the bell was gone and im still running my first set of NTM motors with graupner eprops, and i’m very happy with it after 10 month of usage. I believe budgetwise there is no better choice.

[Tiernan85]

My issue was just the bearings. No issues with slop. I’ve got replacement bearings coming and I’ve bought enough to do a good few motors. I would potentially buy them again knowing I’d have to likely change the bearings in some of them. But again would potentially just buy a better quality motor. Depends on budget I guess.

[Agent CAL]

I originally was satisfied with my motors, but I think I messed them up. To decrease slop (there wasn’t much there in the first place) I loosened the set screws on the motors, and used David’s method. It seemed to work, but after a couple adjustments (long story, including wrong size tools) the set screws’ heads are stripped out. I think this was my error, but now I’ve been flying with super loose motors (pretty irresponsible). The set screws in brushless motors don’t like to be messed with, from my experience I’d say don’t tamper with it unless there’s an actual problem.

[Javelin884]

I just brought all the necessary parts to replace the bearings in the 900kv NTM recommended motors. I was originally just going to replace all the motors with some good quality sunnysky ones but that was going to be a little on the expensive side. At he moment the motors squeak, vibrate a little and have a lot of slop, so something definitely needed to be done. I will post an update on how this goes after I have done the replacement and if I remember.

[Terje]

I have to chime in regarding the NTM motors. My full sized tricopter has flown comparably little, yet a squeaking noise from the rear motor had me investigate (NTM 2830 1200Kv on 3S). The top bearing was shot. Those suckers are near impossible to replace! The bottom one no problem, but the top one won’t bulge! Ended up installing the spare I got when I first stocked up on motors. When stripping the wires to solder them, the insulation of one of the wire came completely off, and on inspection the whole wire was corroded. Almost impossible to solder onto.

Do Hobbyking have a QC issue, a bad batch of motors, or are those motors just crap?

I have four 2826S 1200Kv motors in a box waiting for another project, hate if they are all worthless.

[Brian Black]

I was looking to get the best motors with the thought that it would be stable and fun. I saw this:
http://www.nampamodelaviators.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/HERE-IS-ALIST-OF-KNOWN-CURRENT-MANUFACTURERS-OF-BRUSHLESS-MOTORS.pdf
and then looked into Hacker motors. Does anyone run those? Are they really made in Germany?
If I am getting Chinese, then maybe the SK3s? Anyone running those?
Sorry, I am not helping only taking, but someday I hope to help…

[Siclair]

I’d say ditch the NTM motors. After just two flights I checked the vibrations and I just could not justify the vibrations i felt in the arms. You can hear the whine and they never seem to turn very smooth. I corrected the play and even had to grind one of the shaft since it was hindering the adapter to rest firmly flat.

Changed to T-motor 2216-11 900Kv and the difference is night and day. Bearing play? No. These motors had non of the play I felt on the NTM motors. With balanced props I can barely feel any vibrations on the arms and have absolutely shake free video. I strongly recommend T-motors. At least the professional series.

[Brian Black]

Hi Siclair, I was thinking something like: (because the SK3 are supposed to be made by the same factory/ as Hacker)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18155__Turnigy_Aerodrive_SK3_2830_920kv_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor.html

The Hacker motors are crazy expensive (if made in Germany). T-motors do look like the best. They are about twice as expensive as others, but you say it is worth it. I guess I have to spend a bit more than I was hoping…

Thanks,
Brian

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