9 June, 2019 at 21:29 #62405
That’s what I thought too but not sure because if home location changes every time you start up… then you’d want true so the home location would never change without disconnecting power.10 June, 2019 at 21:00 #62431
Thank you for this helpful dRonin setup tutorial and the cool dronin fork for tricopters! I like to summarize my success story here, maybe it helps other builders:
– Built the branch “MyDronin” from jihlein on Ubuntu. The Dronin docs “Development Setup: Linux” were helpful to get to done: https://dronin.org/docs/development-setup/development-setup-linux/
– The build generates the firmware build/ef_kakutef4v2/ef_kakutef4v2.hex for the Kakute F4 V2 board. I flashed it to the fc with betaflight configurator.
– Soldered ESCs, Servo with feedback and receiver as shown on the Kakute F4 shop page: https://rcexplorer.se/product/kakute-f4-v2-flight-controller/
– Configured dRonin as explained in David’s video. Don’t search for “Tailtune” flight mode. It has been renamed to “ServoCal”.
– When I tried the first flight, the servo direction was wrong. This results on a fast spinning copter during launch :-). If you move your stick left, make sure the servo tilts to the right.
– My resulting autotune results:
– In-flight ServoCal did not work the first time, but the second time. Motor thrust factor 8.14 was computed.
Now there is only one thing I could not get to work, which is RGB LEDs. It is stated that Pin M4 should be used for the LEDs, so I connected my LEDs to Ground, 5V and M4. Is there anything to configure to get the LEDs lighted? Is PIN M4 pre-configured as LED Pin in the dRonin for the KakuteF4?
11 June, 2019 at 02:46 #62436
- This reply was modified 4 months ago by jbman.
Ps I did get distance to home working. But I didn’t notice a direction. But I didn’t get to fly much because I am still having alot of trouble with interference. My osd breaks up and nearly disappears when flying. Not sure why that is happening. I had an LC filter on the power lines to my tx and camera but it had no effect. So I added a toroid to the video and ground inputs to the tx and that helped alot. But the osd gets faint and breaks up in flight. So I’ve pulled everything apart and am re-positioning everything. Also removing the LC filter as it had no impact. The toroid helped so I am adding another to the camera on video and ground.
Also had a sudden power outage in flight. Could have been a failsafe but not sure. I haven’t set up failsafe properly yet so that’s probably what it was. I am using connectors on the rx and I am going to get rid of those and solder the lines directly to make sure that wasn’t the source of the failsafe.11 June, 2019 at 04:03 #62437
@billyd Not funny man. SO you got the Home Distance working, but you didn’t say how you did it. I’ve not figured out the secret yet. Mind sharing!!!! 😉 PLEASE!!!!! 😀
Where did you run your FPV ground wires to? I have my VTx and Camera signals and grounds connected to the FC. I have another frame where I connected my ground wires to the PDB and have a flickering OSD display. I need to try changing to the FC to see if that helps…have to disassemble the frame to do that and I’m not overly eager to do that…again. 😉
11 June, 2019 at 04:50 #62439
- This reply was modified 4 months ago by Vantasstic.
Ok I am using the latest posted build from jihlein.
You have to activate path follower, and vtol path as well. Then you have to go to attitude tab and then the filters tab. You have to set one filter to insoutside and the other to ins.
Distance to home should work then. You can also assign a flight mode to return to home.
It looks like my osd is dead. I think I have to get a new board. ugh. I will do some more studying tomorrow but pretty sure the osd is gone as I can’t get a video signal to appear now.
I was getting power and ground from the pdb. But frankly I think I’m going to go with a completely different method if I have to replace the kakute. I am thinking about a regulator and filter off the main pig tail and bypass the pdb altogether. The osd freaks out under motor load. Or maybe my osd was dying a slow death. not sure.
11 June, 2019 at 04:55 #62440
- This reply was modified 4 months ago by billyd.
Thanks. I take it you have a GPS w/mag sensor. Wait, the Kakute has a Mag sensor built in to the MPU I believe. I don’t have that, so no joy in Distance for me yet.11 June, 2019 at 04:56 #62441
No, the KakuteF4v2 does not have a built-in mag.11 June, 2019 at 05:07 #62442
I am using this compass/mag which works great! : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012RNLG0K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=111 June, 2019 at 05:11 #6244311 June, 2019 at 05:34 #62444
Hey will jihlein’s firmware work with the Kakute f4 V2 AIO board? It’s the same board but with it’s own pdb. The one place where things might get different is the current sensor but I don’t think that matters?
Edit nevermind it only has 5v bec not 6 for tail.
11 June, 2019 at 06:28 #62447
- This reply was modified 4 months ago by billyd.
5V will work for the tail servo. It won’t be as fast though. My buddy has his set for 5V and flies just fine. My larger tricopter also uses 5v for the tail servo…again, no issues.11 June, 2019 at 15:52 #62454
Yes I just thought the performance would suffer at 5v. In any event I ordered a new kakute.
I am surprised others aren’t having issues with video. Maybe my board was not working right from the beginning or I did something wrong.11 June, 2019 at 22:37 #62461
If i remember correctly, the Bluebird servo is go to 7.4 volts. While 1.4 volts may not sound like much, its like turbo charging the output!
BTW 5v is the minimum working voltage but far from optimim. Odds are high tnat the Servo will get burned in situations where it gets bound or the voltage sags. Keep it at 6 Volts or > just to be safe.14 June, 2019 at 13:20 #62505
Servo is also my problem at the moment as my main shaft spit its gears (it´s the HK branded BMS-210DMH with aluminium shaft, which did not withstand my big 1045 props). I think that this might have been the problem with not working inflight servocal as the servo already had a pre-damage though flying was still possible until it chew another tooth.
Nevertheless just ordered the stainless steel replacement gears from the RCE shop and I hope the inflight servocal will work out fine in the end…
Conclusion for me: Saving a few bucks will not always be the better choice!
Attachments:14 June, 2019 at 15:55 #62509
My v4 still flies with the older aluminum shaft and it has 10” props and a heavier motor. But all the gears are quite susceptible to being banged around, for example in a crash.
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