Home Forums Everything about everything else dRonin for Tricopters! (TriRonin)

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    @jihlein I will get one with compass then 🙂 had a BN220 lying around thought I would give a try.

    And I believe you need at least 8 satellites to get a 3D lock.


    @Peter, Try reducing the Yaw I for the tail wag. Did you do the autotune to it? If so, reduce I by 10% and that should put you in the ball park. For example, if autotune Yaw I came out as .0750 change it to .00750. I forget what my is now, but I stumbled across this fix while troubleshooting my tail wags after autotuning.

    As mentioned, without a mag sensor you can not use the path planners, distance/direction to home features. You can display the Lat and Lon in the OSD off GPS alone though.


    @Vantasstic , Thanx.

    I see I made an error..

    My yaw I was set to 0.0395 something something.. there’s a 0 missing there I think 🙂
    Set the yaw I to 0.00395 now. Problem is that it’s raining here and i cannot test fly 🙁
    Hopefully the weather will be better this week.

    I also noticed this weekend that I can changed these triflight pids in the OSD, so I do not have to go home , connect it to the laptop, change and go back again 🙂

    Btw, what are the effects of the PIDS in the the first tab? Does dRonin do anything with these? Do these also effect tuning? Bit confusing that I see PIDS everywhere. I have to focus on the onces in the advanced tab right?


    Thanks @vantasstic and @peterpankras for the input.

    So dRonin/TriRonin is a viable option to have clean flight for long range and no tail wag? And I ask this from the point of view of “limiting myself to chill flights” is an OK constraint, not looking for acro on this UAV.

    If chill flights with smooth video and long range are doable, then I’m a happy camper.


    @slashfoo…if you’re using the recommended 1600kv motors then 4S with 7x4x3 props should do fine. I could NEVER get smooth flight with 3S and 8″ 2-blade props…jitters/jello from hell.

    I doubled up my Tri LR frame arms in an effort to get rid of the jitters/jello. It helped, but not eliminate it. Once I tried 4S and 7″ 3-blades it became a smooth flier. See the comparison here and make your own judgement: https://youtu.be/7McPu5zz69U


    @Vantasstic I’m curious about your range on 4S with triblades. Also, what do you mean by “doubled up” the frame arms? If David got his build to fly how he shows on the video, why can’t we? I mean, there must be a way…… I’d want to fly 3S + high capacity long range, and for that less blades, would be the way to go.

    So I’m curious, how does going 4S and Triblade 7″s hit your flight times?


    I fly 3s and 8 inch 2 blade. I have no problem with jitters/jello.

    make sure the props are well balanced.
    If going for 8 inch 2 blade I highky recommend using good props like the graupner e-props.
    yes they are a bit more expensive, but that is for a reason.

    I have flown many quads with 10, 9 and 8 inch 2 blades from graupner.

    I’ve been flying for more then 25 years now.. with planes in the beginning.
    Rule of thumb is/was that a 2 blade is more efficient then a 3 blade in rc.

    I don’t have a high capacity pack yet specially for the tri but plan on getting 3s 5200 packs.
    Currently just tuning with 3s 2500.
    Did not do any timing yet but after a 10 minute test flight the charger puts 1200mAh back in the pack.



    Doubled up arms means I got another set of arms from David and stacked them on the frame for twice the thickness. This was all in an effort to reduce the jitters/vibrations my flying buddy and I were having with out Tri LR frames using David’s recommended setup. The thicker arms helped, but didn’t solve the issues. Neither of use could get rid of the jitters/video jello until we went to 3-blade props. The 4S was to help make up for smaller diameter props (8″ vs 7″). For use, this change is what worked.

    I’m mostly using 4S 2700mAh packs and get ~10+ minutes of leisurely flying. Larger battery packs seem to result in a nose heavy frame…and there just isn’t much/any room to move the battery pack back far enough to balance. The amp draw between the 3S with 8″ props and 4S with 7″ props is about equal…so I’d call that a wash.

    Try your setup with the stock power recommendation. If it works for you then GREAT. If you aren’t getting the smooth video you want you can consider trying 3-blade props…and maybe a 4S pack if desired.

    I totally agree with Peter. 2 blade props are more efficient and responsive than 3-blade. In fixed wing the difference between the two is noticeable. For multirotor video platforms I found the 3-blade provided smoother video because they don’t respond as quickly, so instead of herky-jerky movements your get slower, smoother movements. In the end, whatever setup gives you the performance you like is the right setup for you.

    As for David’s videos…we bought our Tri LR frames based on the long duration claims and LOS videos. What was missing was FPV videos to truly show how the frame is doing. I have seen one or two good vids from some members here, but most seem to report some amount of jitters/jello. I’ve posted my flight comparisons to show what kind of results I was having…bad to good. We tried various brands/sizes of props, balanced/rebalanced/verified balance of props, motors etc with no significant change until going with the 3-blade props. I’ve not seen anyone verify the flight times David mentioned (40+ minutes in hover with a 3S 5200mAh pack). I call it over-hype. I was on the verge of shelving my Tri LR until I found a setup that now provides me the performance I was hoping for in the beginning. dRonin firmware has flown it the best…though I’m still hoping for or figure out how to get reliable RTL with it. Until then, I’ll record my flights so if it does go down I can use the last good GPS location to try and locate it should it go down.


    @vantasstic thank you for clarifying that, I think those numbers kinda align with what David posted in the product page, glad to see they’re attainable by us mortals 🙂 As people with more knowledge can make the same machines perform at higher levels.

    Anyways, great to see, this makes me more excited to receive my Tri-LR.

    @peterpankras 10 min flight time an 7 triblades on 4s is not bad; it probably lends itself to more aggressive flying than what I’d like, but I do see how it’d be easier to tune out the oscillations. Other than balancing the propelers, another potential source for oscillations is electrical noise, so that may be something to look into. Thanks for sharing your videos and experience, they are very helpful and I look forward to seeing more of those as you progress.


    I’ve installed the 20190113 version of dRonin, and I’ve followed every step exactly.
    When I go to the flight modes, at 9:04 in the video, I do not have the option to select tail tune.
    How do I continue?


    I figure out the bench tail tune. The option has been renamed to ServoCal and you must arm the copter in order to do the tune.
    The problem I’m having now, is I can’t get the tricopter to arm. When I plug in the battery, I see the words fail in the upper right of the screen, I have no idea what it means and if this is the problem.
    Moving the rudder stick will move the tail, but I can’t get the motors to start. If I go into dronin, I can turn on the test outputs and the motors will spin (so I know everything is hooked up correctly).
    Any ideas what I can check to fix this problem?


    Yes, tail tune is now called ServoCal.

    If you go to the Flight data tab, you should be able to see a status for every module running.
    If some are red the copter does not arm.
    Selecting one should give you what is wrong with that module.

    Another thing is , if you use a mode that uses the gps and you don;t have a 3d fix (becaue you are testing inside for example) the copter also does not arm.


    @jhendrix “The option has been renamed to ServoCal and you must arm the copter in order to do the tune.”
    Are you sure? I don’t remember when I did that, but the video says the copter is disarmed for the bench tailtune.

    Can the “Fail” indication be a short for Failsafe, have you done correctly the failsafe setup at around 4:00 in the video?


    I believe for bench tune you do not arm the copter.

    You switch to servocal and pull the elevator stick down, then it starts measuring the servo speed.


    @jhendrix; Servotune (previously tailtune) info starts at 9:09 in this video: https://youtu.be/uZQvEJu7vG4

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