9 October, 2015 at 13:31 #21046
Took my Mini Tricopter out for its first flight and it drop out of sky 3 seconds into its flight.
The left motor has stop working and notice the bottom main plate where the voltage regulator is located is very hot.
Any ideas? Thank you
David9 October, 2015 at 13:55 #21047hertzParticipant
First determine whether it is ESC or Motor problem, stock DYS ESCs were reported to have some kind of overheating problem. If this is it – the only option for you is to replace such ESC.
Besides it can be a problem in motor, e.g. winding short. Then you can try eliminate the problem yourself or get another motor.9 October, 2015 at 16:24 #21052
When the Tricopter came down, I thought the ECS may have overheated but all 3x ECS(s) are not warm at all.
The only part that is hot is the bottom plate where the voltage regulator is located.
Is it normal for the voltage regulator to be running that hot?
I don’t have any spare ESC or Motor, so I have to swap with one of the working ones.9 October, 2015 at 23:33 #21068SBNParticipant
Check that the servo cable “white/black” are intact.
On my Mini the frame er so sharp that they cut a signal cable just from moving the arms…10 October, 2015 at 00:31 #21069Jan PaulParticipant
It is normal that the voltage regulator un the PDB gets nicely warm.
Does the motor spin up now? Does it stuter? Make sure sugnal and groung wire from the ESC are connected to the FC. Not connected ground coused random motor cut outs for me.11 October, 2015 at 11:11 #21106
Thanks SBN and Jan
Tested the connectivity of the left motor servo cables using a multimeter and both black and white cables are fine.
Connect up the main flight battery again and using “Cleanflight” to test the motors – ran main motor tests to run all the 3 motors at the same time – again the left motor did not spin, the right and tail motors spin up fine.
Found a spare 3DR 20Amp ESC and a servo tester. Connect this setup to the left motor and the left motor spin up fine.
Looks like my DYS ECS connected to the left motor is faulty.
Ran another test with the original DYS ECS + left motor + servo tester – again the left motor will not spin.
So confirm DYS ECS is faulty.
1) In this case, is the DYS ECS considered as a DoA?
2) Do I get another DYS SN20A ECS to replace the faulty unit or change all the 3x SN20A to LittleBee 20A BLHeli ESC?
3) If I decide to replace all ECS to LittleBee, what BLHeli firmware do I require to work with the MiniTricopter? Do I need another too to flash the firmware on the ECS?
Thank you.11 October, 2015 at 11:52 #21108LeoTheHumanParticipant
All the comparisons I’ve seen on YouTube are not in favor of SN20As. It means you can squeeze more power out of the same motors with different ESCs. But you’ll need to spend more if you want to replace all of them. So it’s up to you. If you buy SN20A to replace, I would suggest to buy at least two. They are cheap, but sometimes come dead or fail quickly. On the other hand, if they work for a while, chances are good that they continue working.23 November, 2015 at 05:05 #22785
Happy to report my “limited edition 071” is up and flying in Singapore.
Replaced all the DYS ESC to LittleBee 20A with latest BLHeli firmware but stick with TriFlight 0.1 and David’s setting for the time being until he releases his video on TriFlight 0.3.
Flew 6 battery packs – 3x 3S and 3x 4S. Flew the 3S first to get a feel of the Mini but broke 2x HQProps on first flight from 2meters falling on grass. Decide to replace the props with Gemfan instead for durability for the remain 5 flights.
The Mini definitely feels more zippy on 4S but for beginners suggest using 3S for a slower feel before advancing to 4S. I use 1800mAH battery and flight time is around 8+ minutes.
Here is a picture of my Mini. There was no stock for smaller OrangeRX receivers from HobbyKing, so had to use what was available to get my Mini flying.
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