Home Forums Everything about the Tricopter V4 Mini-tricopter v3 with integrated Naze32 (tips and tricks)

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  • #16694
    LeoTheHuman
    Participant

    My full-size tricopter build choked on one of the motors and the mini looked ugly with all the stuff on it, see the proof below. I also needed to check out @David’s integrated Naze32 board and free up my only full Naze32 board I was kind of keeping for experiments on new copters I build before soldering in something permanent.
    So, I ordered a couple integrated boards along with almost full second kit, as by that time I knew I will be building both full version and mini. I decided not to wait for the booms to get back in stock and ordered everything but the booms separately. I was using HK 10x10x150mm carbon booms for my mini arms and I still have to break one, so I’m quite happy with that. Here are some things I’ve done to prettify my mini build.
    See posts appearing below… I need pictures in order (: I will also be updating this topic in the future with the progress, if any.

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    #16697
    LeoTheHuman
    Participant

    My permanent setup is as follows:
    – Naze32 kit with PDB (no BEC), except 150mm carbon booms from HK.
    – Emax 2204 motors (2 CCW, 1 CW).
    – Simon 12A Brushless ESC [RapidESC] from abusemark.com.
    – Tail servo TGY-210DMH.
    – FrSky D4R-II, obv, ppm mode.
    – Very small and light switching UBEC from ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251610080014
    – 3 strips of 2 WS2812 LEDs to go on the booms.

    I use 3S/4S 2200mAh batteries with Gemfan 6045 and 5040 props on that. No FPV setup yet, but it’s coming. Using GoPro to record only now. Waiting for another VTX to arrive, as I put my only one into Danaus (see picture attached, although it is irrelevant).

    I like how clean the frame and electronics look, apart from the ugly ESCs I have on it. I might do the arms rebuild again when I receive some more DYS BL20A/SN20A I put into my Danaus, loved so much and will use on virtually everything now.
    I might also swap motors to something more powerful then, for example DYS BE2208, but it currently hovers around half throttle (lower on 4S, higher on 3S) and I’m pretty happy about that.

    #16703
    LeoTheHuman
    Participant

    I mounted the receiver inside the frame instead of the front spacer, as in my opinion it just takes too much space for such a small aircraft. I put metal 10mm standoffs to support the frame instead. BTW, these were going to be the landing gear for Danaus, but I simply don’t want the landing gear there. (:
    Separate switching BEC fits next to the tail boom inside the frame. It’s adjustable and that’s good, because I had to set it to 4.7V to ensure WS2812 are working stable. It powers everything but the tail servo, which draws power from the tail ESC.
    Outer LEDs are set up for orientation: white on front booms, red on the back. Inner LEDs are all set to indicate Arm/Mode/Warnings. LEDs are bright enough and spaced as far as possible to fly comfortably at night.

    #16708
    LeoTheHuman
    Participant

    Battery tray looks too big for the mini, but I simply haven’t got the proper CG tests and trimming yet, so that will do for now. Although in the folded state it kind of annoying to transport, as the most useless part makes the whole build longer. Arrrgh!
    Battery connector is conveniently mounted on the tail boom. Just because there’s no other place for it. I actually had to route the positive power wire inside the frame around the boom to make it work. Ahh, there’s not enough space in there. I made an error of making the arms go inside to the same length as on the full size, which is basically not necessary, eats a lot of space and also makes the folding wires longer. Need to address that when I break one arm. (:
    I decided to help arms to stay intact by using the zip-tie in place of the limiting screw. Might help on impact from the side. Have not tested it yet, but it also saves a bit of weight.
    BTW, the zip-ties are yellow for a purpose. I usually use them as temporary holders when I need to keep something in place for a while during the build and tuning phases. But I loved how you can instantly see if one is broken after an “easy landing”. (:

    #16713
    LeoTheHuman
    Participant

    There’s definitely a wire mess inside and I had to manage it somehow. In addition to the power and signal wires for ESCs I had to put power for LEDs (used the rest of the servo lead for that) and the signals to and from LEDs (used small 32awg servo wire for that) inside the booms. Signal wires for LEDs join in the middle of the frame, soldered in sequence and hot-glued to the PDB.
    To make sure the wires survive the folding and unfolding I used the hot glue on both sides of the arms. It worked perfectly on the left one, but I think I hasted it on the right, so it came apart and the ground wire was damaged. Have to repair now…
    I’m waiting on the delivery from HK to upgrade my 9x with the LCD backlight and I will also update the firmware and route the telemetry wires inside it at that occasion.
    I’m still pondering on where to put the barometer and gps with compass and VTX, will appreciate some advice.
    I’m also thinking about getting rid of the tray for some flights, but I have no idea on how to mount the battery then…
    That’s it for today, thanks for reading! (:

    #16776
    LeoTheHuman
    Participant

    I weighted the camera tray and decided that it has to go. Need a way to mount the GoPro while the side panels are not available. Any ideas? I have a battery on top and the rest is clear.

    #16869
    LeoTheHuman
    Participant

    Lack of the magnetometer is so annoying that I might be delaying my full size build. It just keeps yawing around when it pleases. I know where it comes from, but I can’t think of a solution, PIDs on yaw aren’t that easy to tune for some reason. Might need to spend a hell lot of time tuning these. Next step: solder 5V, TX, RX, GND wires for Bluetooth and start changing settings from the phone every time the copter is on the ground…

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