Home Forums Everything about everything else [Newbie Rant] Soldering F3FC Board

This topic contains 3 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by  The-One-Who-Never-Crashes 2 years, 11 months ago.

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  • #32831

    punong_bisyonaryo
    Participant

    Warning: Rant

    I have consumed maybe 2 feet worth of solder just fixing my mistakes. I don’t usually solder stuff and I don’t have the nimblest of fingers, so when I first came across this site, I saw the build video of the minitricopter with the (then) Naze32 board and I thought I could manage.

    While the F3FC board is fancier and have all these bells and whistles and pads for everything, the pads look like they are also spaced much closer together, and they are. I tried following all the soldering tips, but I all of my solder keep visiting their neighboring pads, and I have to keep removing solder and redoing everything again.

    Just frustrated with this right now. I was so excited building this as my first drone, but I just wanna give up and call it quits.

    /endrant

    #32832

    Terje
    Moderator

    A set of helping hands, a magnifying glass and a decent soldering station with a narrow tip combined with 63/37 lead based solder will get you a long way.

    I too found it challenging soldering the board. After hand soldering one of the prototype PDB’s it seems like a walk in the park though 😉

    Don’t know why, but your post made me think about this 🙂

    #32855

    punong_bisyonaryo
    Participant

    @Terje Hahaha! Simpsons is the best! There’s a video or gif for any situation.

    After that rant and about an hour of rest though, I got back at it and had much better progress. It still took some time, but 10hrs later, here I am. Build is done, and already setup CleanFlight. Two of the motors are reversed, so I’ll work on that tomorrow. The camera is not yet set up, hopefully I can do that tomorrow too!

    Cheers!

    #32868

    I have to say that the directly soldered pads are a big drawback in an FPV race — suppose that you break/strip your servo and need to fix it quickly before the next heat. On the old Naze32 board, you simply un-plugged the broken servo and plugged in a new one. On the F3FC, it’s not that simple; you have to take the whole copter apart and re-solder the connections. Keep in mind that some races in remote areas might not even have a power outlet, leaving a pilot without his/her craft for the rest of the day.

    It would be fantastic if there were pin-headers on the F3FC as well. Just my opinion.

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