13 May, 2018 at 04:11 #57856
Ready for initial LOS testing, autotune, and tailtune…
LitterBug13 May, 2018 at 23:49 #57862
Initial back yard LOS testing complete. Not a complete success, but not a failure either. Another example of an overpowered build needing to be detuned from the start. Had serious oscillations which heated up the motors. Rear motor always runs hotter and the ImpossiTilt printed in PLA warped when I was messing with the tail while everything was still hot. Printing a Baby ImpossiTilt holder so I don’t have to unsolder the motor to swap out the tilt. The Baby holder will also raise the motor up a bit which will make me feel better about the prop to servo clearance. Will do more testing with it printed in PLA, but will also be working on dialing in my PETG printer settings. Higher temp and more durable than PLA, so long term should be better. Have a spool of clear RED PETG that matches the props. Should be much prettier than the Bright Yeller 😀
LitterBug14 May, 2018 at 01:19 #57866
LB Nylon is the way to go… Takes a licking and keeps on ticking14 May, 2018 at 01:53 #57868
I have a spool of clear(ish) nylon but haven’t done any printing with it yet. Thanks for the idea! I will pull it out of the box and give it a go. Who knows, it might be easier to dial in than PETG too. I just have to be careful because it needs heat to be at the top end of my printer’s limits.
I put one of my original prints of the Baby impossiTilt on Mini Tri2 and got it out in the back yard for some more LOS work. I halved the stock P on roll/tilt/pitch before starting the autotune this time and got a complete tune in without having to stop it short. Calculated P was lower than default P. Front motors were a bit warm and the rear was actually cooler than the front. No smoldering gooey plasti tilt, so obviously the heat was from oscillations. Could still probably knock P down even more before the autotune. I had to laugh when I saw that the throttle hover is 8%. I knew the stick was barely up, but MAN is this thing overpowered. LOL Printed up one of the 4 bolt Baby ImpossiTilt motor holders and will swap it out before enabling the TriFlight tail routines and going through the ground and air tailtunes. Once that’s done, time to get the FPV gear on and hit the field for the real testing!
LitterBug15 May, 2018 at 16:41 #57879
What’s the copters flight weight ?
@ 8% throttle with a 500 gram copter you’d have 12.5:1 power to weight. Or to put it another way 6250 grams of thrust at full throttle!
BTW i have some Master Air Screw 7x3x4 props that just look wicked but ever with the F80’s the copter was a bit underpowered with 4S. If i made a full conversion of the F3 board to F4 and added a custom BEC then 6S would scream using those props. https://www.masterairscrew.com/collections/all-products/products/3-blade-5×3-propeller15 May, 2018 at 21:14 #57882
Weight as tested: 615g with a 1000mah 6S 75C battery and no FPV gear.
Props used and shown above are HQ 7×3.5×3.
The final weight will shift around a bit depending on FPV/NAV/HD/LR/props/etc type gear on it. I will be using this platform for testing a number of different things. For top speed runs, I have a 95C 1300mah 6S battery. I was pulling > 3000watts with my uber light quad build and can drain it in less than a minute. So it is up to the task for speed runs. Plan on initially doing normal range FPV flying and giving it a good shake down. Have an external M8N GPS/Mag ready to go for both speed testing and NAV. Can throw a Runcam HD or Gopro on it in any configuration. May also throw long range gear on and do some effciency/duration flying. I’d also like to get some LED orientation lighting on it for LOS flying. For some reason, I have a really hard time keeping track of LOS orientation on tris compared to quads. This is my only F4 Tri and it has integrated graphical OSD. My Dev buddies assure me there is still life to be had from my existing F3 builds since I am doing straight up flying without integrated OSD or NAV to use up CPU resources. I am however starting to see the writing on the wall. I may convert one of my Baby Tris over to a F4 Seppuku FC too.
LitterBug15 May, 2018 at 23:40 #57883
If you convert the Tri-Baby be aware that with 6S its a rocket. Had a few serious crashes simply cause its so bloody fast.
Before I forget, the LS2207-1900kv motors are really good for the Tri-baby. 10 grams lighter than the F80’s for similar performance.16 May, 2018 at 04:39 #57887
It would be a Simple FC swap leaving it 4S max. My Baby Tris are already borderline overpowered and everything is pretty current and good stuff. 😀 I prefer the way my mini tris fly, but hoping the latest firmware mashup will make the same improvements on the Baby Tris that it did on the Minis. Had issues getting it to boot on the F3FC, but that has been worked out. Just waiting on good weather to hit the field now with the baby tris. I’ll wait till after some testing at the field to decide on the FC swap.
LB7 July, 2018 at 04:25 #58217
Got @jihlein’s latest dRonin/Triflight mashup on both mini-tris today and got some initial flight testing and autotunes. Ran into some issues with Mini#1. Forgot that I had unhooked the servo feedback wire from the DTFc when doing LQG, 6S, and native dRonin testing a few months ago. So I need to fire up the iron before getting any tailtunes and enabling the triflight routines.
The BlueBird A207 servo that I have on Mini#2 just scored a 457dps ground tailtune speed. HOLY SCHMOKES!. Beefy AND fast. Tried to get an in-air tailtune, then realized it would help to have a beeper so I can tell the status of the tune. D’OH. Might as well throw a VTX on it at the same time to complete the build. Should have it finished up early tomorrow, and hopefully in the air for some FPV later this weekend. Need to double check ESC firmware too. Was hearing grinding from the motors and heat, which I’ve had with lower versions of BLHeli_32 firmware.
LitterBug8 July, 2019 at 06:44 #62840
@litterbug, were you able to try adjusting the placement of the screwholes for the stack? I’ve marked some lines on my middle board and I think with this I’ll still be able to fold the arms.
Attachments:8 July, 2019 at 06:58 #62842
Also, are there any advantages of using the Matek PDB and the FC you were using over the BabyPDB/Kakute V2 combo?8 July, 2019 at 17:54 #62846
Its a cleaner, lighter build with higher servo voltage from the PDB. Oh it can run 6S too!10 July, 2019 at 04:57 #62852
Yeah, the BabyPDB only goes up to 5S, but it also gives 5A. So I guess that’s the tradeoff, and coming from 4S I need to figure out if I want to go 5S or 6S.10 July, 2019 at 15:03 #62855
Go for 6S… you can always step back from it once you have the gear but cant step up to it without changing out boards.10 July, 2019 at 18:17 #62856
I don’t suppose you would know if a Helio AIO FC (https://www.heliorc.com/wiring/) can be used ? Just because I have a spare one lying around. It has 2.5A (3.2 burst) regulator, can go 6S, and has a couple of extra UARTs too, but no RSSI pad so I guess servo feedback is out.
Sorry if I’ve been asking a lot of questions. I have an old mini that had the F3FC board (it’s dead now) and I’m trying to resurrect it. Been flying quads in the past 2 years. TBH the only reason I would’ve gone with the Kakute/BabyPDB setup is because of the build video and documentation. Can any flight controller with RSSI be used?
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