Home Forums Everything about the Mini Tricopter Reciver for F3FC + Spektrum DX8

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    I agree with @hertz. Likewise with discharging to 3.7v per cell. As a beginner that’s not a bad idea because you’ll use some time coming back in and all that, but as you get more experienced and get a feel for what you should be getting in flight time, and when it’s time to come back in to land, you’ll realize there’s a *lot* of flight time left in those last 0.2v per cell. It’s something I didn’t realize until I had an OSD that showed me real-time voltage. You plug in at 16.8, by the time you’ve lifted off the ground, you’re at 16.1, but then you fly around for a few minutes, and eventually you get to where your pack is at 15.0, 14.8, 14.5, and it feels like it stays there forever (the discharge curve that @hertz mentioned). The difference between landing at 14.8v vs. landing at 14.0v (3.7v/cell vs. 3.5v/cell) could be a minute or more, meaning the difference between a 3:30 flight and a 5:00 flight.

    Again, there’s nothing *wrong* with setting your alarm to 14.8 volts, especially starting out (it took me a while to get good enough to even discharge a pack that far without crashing!), though.


    Thanks @hertz and @swissfreek !

    Did some hovering inside my living room this morning. (Strong winds outside.)
    First flight without VideoTX: 4,20V -> 3,92V in about 5:00 minutes. Charging 642mA.
    Second flight with VideoTX: 4,20V -> 3,78V in about 10:00 minutes. Charging right now…

    (In the second flight I had a cellmeter connected then flying. End hovering when battery reach 3,70 V/cell. The 3,78V is measured by the charger about five minutes after end of flight.)

    Have set the F3FC to start warning at 3,7 V/cell. I’m not sure, but I think it start beeping at 3,85 or something. But since it feels like something beeps all the time I’m not sure…

    Minim OSD? Another gadget to add to my to do list. 🙂


    10 minutes of hovering sounds about right for the mini. The variance in voltage that you’re seeing is probably just minor differences in the two different sensors and how they are calibrated, I wouldn’t worry about it too much. The other possibility is that you are seeing voltage sag. This is highly unlikely right now since you are just hovering, but when you get to where you are cranking around at pretty high throttle with rapid throttle changes, you will start to notice that when you punch the throttle, your voltage may drop half a volt, which as you get closer to your alarm setting, could trigger the alarm, and then when you lower the throttle you’ll get most of that voltage back, and the alarm will turn off. Also, you’ll get some voltage back when you land and the pack settles down, so if you let the pack sit for a little while before checking voltage, you can expect it to be higher than it was as you were flying or fresh off the quad after a landing.


    Update: Second flight with VideoTX: 4,20V -> 3,78V in about 10:00 minutes. Charging 1246mA. That is 70% then.

    So flying until the cell meter say 3,7 V/cell seems to be good voltage for me. Will set the Spektrum telemetry alarm to 14,8 V next time flying. Did one ILS/FPV flying an hour ago. Was windy (11 m/s) but most of the time the Mini Tricopter stayed in the air. Flying towards the wind with speed and break hard gave me surprises every time since it almost tipped over backwards. The FPV flying remind me how bad the video quality is. Have a FatShark PredatorV2 bought in 2013 that seldom shows any colors and gets really dark sometimes when flying. Don’t know if a new and better camera will do the trick.


    Both board cams and goggles have improved dramatically since 2013, for sure. I’m not going to tell you to run out and buy new goggles, but you will definitely notice a difference going from those Predator V2s to Attitude V3s or Dominator V3s, and something like the Headplay HDs will blow your mind. Is your cam that old as well, or is it new? You could try changing settings on the cam with the little remote thing that you can buy from GetFPV or Hobbyking or whatever, or if your cam is from 2013 as well, you can buy a Runcam Swift or something similar and that should give a marked improvement in video quality without shelling out $300+ on a new set of goggles (and still flying with a shitty cam).


    Camera (Fat Shark CMOS 600 TVL), video transmitter (Fat Shark 5,8GHz 250mW), goggles (Predator V2) and antennas (ImmersionRC 5.8GHz Circular Polarized spiroNet Antenna) was all bought in August 2013. Contacted Immersion same month because I didn’t get as good picture as other on youtube seems to get despite trying “everything”. Got the answer: Try different settings.

    Have seen the HeadPlay HD on Flitetest and did some googling now. Great price and picture, but big during transport. One reason I build the Mini Tricopter is because my full size tricopter often (read always) is left at home because it’s to big. Where in Europe can you buy HPHD?

    Attitude V3s and Dominator V3s are on the other hand both easy to transport. If buying one of those I think I chose the Dominator V3s because of build in DVR and WVGA 800×480. Or will I have no use of the extra pixel width? Can the videoTX send 800×480 from the camera? Do the camera capture 800×480?

    Talking about camera, one new will be ordered right away I have choose one to order. The Runcam Swift looks really nice. Could it easy be mounted without modifications in a Mini Tricopter? The case looks little bit different. According to hobbyking http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__104475__RunCam_Swift_600TVL_FPV_Camera_PAL_Black_.html input voltage should be 7~12V. Is this a mistyping? Reading 5~17 on other sites. Or do hobbyking sell another version? (My FatShark VideoTX supplies 5V to the camera.)

    Now I will go out and try to tail tune. Not so windy outside today. 🙂


    I’d stick with Runcam FPV cameras, Swift, older Sky, Owl.


    The Swift isn’t a board camera, which is what the mini tricopter kit was designed to hold. It should not be very hard to figure out a way to mount it, though, as it comes with several mounting options. Somewhere here in the forum someone used a couple Lego bricks to mount it and it looks really nice.

    What is posted on YouTube is almost always GoPro footage or similar. What you see in your goggles will never, ever match up with that. That being said, camera technology and settings have improved substantially in the past three years, and you will probably be seeing much better detail and quality in a cam you buy today, as long as you don’t get the cheapest garbage you can find (which it doesn’t sound like you are doing). I still have that FatShark camera on one of my quads. It’s not garbage, but there is better out there.

    I have the HeadPlayHDs and I love them. The picture looks amazing. I didn’t travel with my multirotors much before, but just tried it, and while it worked, as soon as I got back I went out and bought Attitude V3s so I could fit the goggles in my backpack. I went with the Attitudes because 1) they come with the module, whereas on the Dominators you have to buy a module to get video reception, and 2) they show the image in actual aspect ratio. The Dominators are 800×480, but there are no camera/transmitter combos I’m aware of that transmit that. So all it does is stretch the image to fit the screen. FOV is basically the same for both, quality is also basically the same. The Attitudes now come with the facemask/fan also, as well as the ability to swap modules. So really, the only difference is the resolution (which may actually bother you on the Dominators), and choosing whether you’d rather have head tracking or DVR. Dominators are more expensive, and you still need a module and antenna. Neither of them looks as nice to me as the HeadPlayHDs, but again, they fit in the backpack. HeadPlayHDs do not.


    Did find the lego mount and it looks like it can be mounted in Many says. Now I just have to check with hobbyking if the 7-12V is correct or not.

    The youtube films I referenced to was films from FatSharks system like mine. I have a hard time to see what I saw. When filmning cars (in the end of the Saab Turbo Trackday film) I have to had a spotter telling me what to film. My gopro on the other hand did what it should do I think. 🙂 https://vimeo.com/mioh

    Totally missed the receiver module on the Dominators! Then the Attitudes is my first choice.

    Thank you so much for helping me out.


    Yeah, it’s often not well-documented on the product listings on a lot of sites. Took me a while to realize it did not come with a module. Good luck.


    in case it is of help, here is my solution. I also have a DX8 and I wanted a small receiver, and able to use all 8 channels. The solution was one of the DSMX clone satellites that I have lying around, something like this:
    DSMX compatible spektrum satellite

    Also, since I did not want to cut the cable, I made an adaptor using some JR connectors, the ones I used in the past to solder to the Naze32 board to connect this satellite:
    Micro connector 1.5mm 3-Pin JST ZH
    Total cost is about 24 Eur, with extra connectors, and a satellite that you can still re-use. I hope this helps.



    i have DX8 to and orderd a R820x V2 sbus.
    but he doesnt connect to it and if i put it in uart1 i dont see lights on it.

    sorry for my english.

    greats jay


    Have you set the UART1 port in triflight to SBUS? Like this but on UART1 instead of UART3?

    rx sbus port

    Do you have any 5V source so you can bind the R820x V2 to your transmitter before connecting it to the tricopter?


    yes it works now i didnt bind it correctly.
    thx for the tips and help


    Hello everybody

    I am using a Spektrum Transmitter and just bought a orange receiver for it because i wanted telemetry.

    Unfortunately i did not read swissfreak’s post clear enough:

    In order to get telemetry to Spektrum, you’d have to use a Spektrum telemetry module and plug that into your receiver. It would not interface with cleanflight.

    I missed the point with not interfacing 🙁

    So i wonder why is that. Is it because “nobody” (or at least no developer) uses Spektrum anymore and supporting it is not worth the effort implementing it? Is the protocol proprietary and not documented? Or are there hardware reasons for the lack of support?

    My second question is if it would be possible to connect the F3FC inbuilt current sensor somehow to my receivers telemetry port to get out current and energy consumed (A and Ah)?


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