Home Forums Everything about the Mini Tricopter Routing tail wires on new F3FC mini frame

This topic contains 9 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by  swissfreek 3 years, 1 month ago.

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  • #30480

    sscott
    Participant

    Hi everyone

    For those of you with the new F3FC frame for the mini tri, how do you route the tail ESC and servo wires? Inside the tail boom or outside it?

    The old mini tri build video shows the wires being routed OUTSIDE the boom. However, the placement of the power, servo and ESC pads have changed for the new F3FC board. So I watched the new V4 build video, and in that video, David routes the tail wires INSIDE the boom.

    Just wondering what people have found works better with the new board and the mini?

    Thanks 🙂

    #30481

    GAntonjo
    Moderator

    Hi @sscott. I guess it is all up to your likes. Personally, since I did not have the longer wires that come with the V4 kit, I just routed the tail servo and power cables on the outside, just like on the first version of the Mini Tricopter. Sure, it looks much cleaner routed on the inside, so maybe on a future rebuild I will make that change to my mini. On my V3 I have the cables routed inside all booms.

    #30485

    swissfreek
    Participant

    I had them on the outside for my original mini Tricopter, but when I rebuilt it with the F3FC today, I decided to run the wires inside the boom. On my big Tricopter I have always run them down the boom since I switched to carbon tubes on the V3 and I really like the clean look.

    There’s a catch, though: the Emax motor wires are a lot shorter than the DYS motor wires. They are not long enough to orient the ESC the way it is done on the V4. You have to have the motor side of the ESC facing toward the tail, and then take the power and signal wires and fold them back under the ESC so they can go into the end of the boom. It works but it’s bulky and fiddly to set up just right. Even so, it looks way better than having the wires on the outside, and I think it would actually be kind of a pain in the butt with the solder pads on the flight controller the way they are now. You’d probably have to run the servo down one side and the ESC down the other, or you’d end up with a rat’s nest inside the frame.

    Anyway, I’ll post pictures of my setup in the morning.

    #30492

    juansacco
    Participant

    I routed 4 wires trough the tail and solder 4 connectors ( headers ) so the servo will connect to it from outside, if I break the servo I have to take it out and connect it to to that connector, it can be done in the field without soldering and in less than 1 minute 🙂

    I mostly fly indoors, so fixing on-site is important for me

    #30493

    swissfreek
    Participant

    That’s pretty clever. It definitely is a pain replacing components when it’s all soldered together nice and pretty…

    #30505

    Marlon
    Participant

    Tail it is!

    I received my digital soldering iron yesterday. I finally started and finished my F3FC build. I must say what a clean design. I routed mine trough the boom. Had a defective digital servo in my truck, cut the wires on that. And extended the servo feedback and ESC wires (ESC wires replaced with longer ones) My Delta 8 now fits inside the frame. I must say running the wires trough the boom makes your build cleaner and meaner looking.

    Old F1 in the old parts graveyard now… snif snif we had fun.

    #30516

    swissfreek
    Participant

    Yeah, definitely looks better with the wires in the boom. I replace all my wires with silicon wires (GetFPV sells silicon wires all the way down to 26AWG) because I hate when the insulation melts, and if I’m soldering in wires anyway, might as well do it nice. I guess it’s sort of pointless since I think cover all those wires in mesh, but hey, even if no one else knows, I do…

    Here’s what the tail setup on my mini tricopter looks like:

    #30521

    sscott
    Participant

    Wow, ok thanks everyone. swissfreak, your build looks so clean with all the wires inside the boom. I think I might just try that even though extending all the wires will be a pain.

    #30524

    Marlon
    Participant

    Ow darn!

    @swissfreek why didn’t I think of mesh on the servo wires WHY!?!? hahah it looks awesome man. Get yourself a Pro32 soldering iron worth every penny. At 300c there was no melting on the plastic insulation. (I also hate it when it happens) But I used silicone shrink tube on the servo wire extensions.

    #30540

    swissfreek
    Participant

    Not familiar with the Pro32. I have a Hakko 888D, I love that thing.

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