Solder pad pulled up from F3FC

[throwawaydebater]

Before even maiden-ing my MiniTri the signal solder pad for one of the arms pulled up from the F3FC during the assembly.
Attached is an image of the signal pad in question, unfortunately it will not accept any additional solder onto the two tiny pins you may notice in the center of the pad.

Do I have any options aside from spending another $50+ to buy another board?

[hertz]

I think David is the best one to answer that kind of question. Maybe you could scratch some insulation to expose the signal trace, you could also use silver epoxy or glue to create a new soldering pad.

[Marlon]

Hi,

Looking at your pic I can see browning surrounding you solder points, maybe too hot or keeping the iron too long on the board. I strongly think this post by @maz has to taken into account:

“I rewire, and use a HOT iron 320C normally for desoldering, 300C for soldering [non lead based solder]

Mixing lead based solder with the factory stuff is a good way of getting it off too.”

After reading his post I ordered one of these:

http://www.banggood.com/TS100-Digital-OLED-Programable-Interface-DC-5525-Soldering-Iron-Station-Built-in-STM32-Chip-p-984214.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Celc-Prot-Repair-RM-TS100&utm_content=hazel&gclid=CKj5xsPhwcsCFY8bgQodub8B-g

Just for MY F3FC.

I’m sure some one can help with a reroute, just hope it’s not on the IC pins.

[swissfreek]

The only time this has happened to me was a result of too much heat and holding the iron on too long. David’s boards don’t come pre-tinned, so my recommendation for the future would be to use leaded solder in the future if possible (if you’re in the US that’s too easy, if in Europe maybe not so much), which will allow you to turn your iron down. Also consider that if you have to hold your iron that long in order to get a good joint, particularly on small pads like the signal pads (as opposed to the pads with lots of “thermal inertia” like the battery ground pads), it’s possible that your iron’s tip may be too small. Using a slightly larger tip will give you a better result than turning the heat up.

Unfortunately as @hertz said, @david is probably your best bet for possible solutions. I have not had luck recreating pads on other boards in the past, but then again I’m not exactly a soldering wizard…

[RCExplorer – David]

Sorry to see this @throwawaydebater.
Looks like too much heat for too long. Also did you push the tip of the iron on the pad with any force? Any lateral force will greatly stress the epoxy holding the pad when it’s heated too much.
To help prevent this I added 2 via holes on each pad, which makes it quite a lot more tolerant.

The vias are “dead” though. They don’t connect to anything. They are purely there prevent this from happening.

The only 2 places where you can solder a new connection is scraping the lead going from the pad or straight to the processor pin.
Attached an image for reference.

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[throwawaydebater]

Thanks for the info, went ahead and bought another.

While I have you in the thread @David, I bought one of the recommended cameras on the MiniTricopter Kit page, and after its arrival it appears it only takes 12V. After checking the product page on the specifications it says the same, but also +-10%.

Unfortunately I was planning to run on 4S, but I’m thinking I shouldn’t risk it trying 16V on it. Thoughts?
Probably going to go hunt for a 12V BEC of some sort or look for a VTX with 12V out (mine is 5V).

[swissfreek]

I would recommend a Pololu 12v step-down. They are tiny and you can solder it inline on the camera wire and then throw some heat shrink on it and you’ll forget it’s there. That’s what I ended up doing with the camera I got when I realized it required at least 6v and no more than 12v. Works really well and costs next to nothing.

[RCExplorer – David]

Sorry about that. That camera is not supposed to be on the recommended page. Pretty bad that they don’t specify the voltage on the page.

Hobbyking has cheap 12V BEC’s that are reasonably small. The Pololu is the smallest and work well, but expensive compared to the HK one.

[throwawaydebater]

I didn’t look super closely before buying it and (like you probably did) thought the huge text saying “Wide Voltage” was for that camera, although it was actually just an ad for one of your other recommended cameras. Whoops.

No biggie, have a Polulu on the way.

Thanks for all the help guys!

[Deepnine]

to repair your board you can do this. cut the signal line from the minus pad (red X) with a sharp knive ( be carful). And use the minus from the other side.

Then take some very small wire and solder it the the signal wire (blue) scrap of the coating until you see the cooper.

Then hotglue or epoxy the wire (blue) to the board. so that nothing rips it off.

I killed lots of boards and ESCs that way.

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