What would you change about the Tricopter V3 kit?

[RCExplorer – David]

If you had the power to change anything about the kit, what would it be?

[Dynoprilia]

Hi David,
I just recieved my Tricopter and the build has commenced.
This kit is awesome and very good value for money.
Really looking forward to the maiden flight.
If I was to change anything I would possibly make the gap between the frames slightly wider. I understand that the spacing is currently controlled by the depth of the boom’s so not easy to change however I feel a little space is wasted between the frames because if it was just that little bit wider you could possibly hide a bec or similar in there. I guess in the future I would like to see some hop up parts.
Maybe some cnc machined tail servo swivel parts or alternatively a screw with a shoulder that can be positively tightened against the top of the servo.These are not criticisms of the kit….it is cool as it is 🙂
Regards
Dyno.

[coolblaze19]

Kind of along the same lines as Dynoprilia i would say that you could make the controller board less of an eyesore if you cut a square hole in the top base plate like you did on the batbone so that you could put the controller board of the bottom plate and make it more protected. this might make the structure a little weak though so its just a thought.

[lynnds2001]

The area between the frames where the wires have to move everytime you fold the booms is a problem for me. The wires are chafing already. If you could show precisely how to arrange them in that small space. I didn’t use that fiber sleeve over the wires, maybe that would help them slide in there.
I finished my build and attempted a maiden. Whoa, needs lots of trimming and because I am a raw newbie, it will take lots of crashing to get it under control. I wish there was a trainer landing gear like for the helis; e.g. long wire shocks with a ball at the end. (ordered a kit to adapt). I crash hard and break the zip ties every time. Gets old fast. Remember lots of us are newly inspired pilots. I hope my V3 lasts thru my learning curve. 🙂

[youmanskids]

hey all, got my backorderd kit last week, built it and set it up exactly as David did, same set-up, P-gain and I-gain, everything and she flew great! this is my first mutirotor (not counting indoor nano quad). WHAT I WOULD CHANGE? needs stronger tail servo mechanism, the ABS is hollow printed and very brittle, it broke mid flight on my 6th flight and down she came. no other damage, I was only 10 feet up. I would like to see a machined aluminum (or aluminium)set up for this very critical part, or at least stronger material. It sure looks good in flight and David’s set up was spot on! thanks.

[RCExplorer – David]

Thanks everyone for the great feedback!

youmanskids: Where did the tilt mechanism break? Was it hollow inside?

lynnds2001: I’ll take a picture later today if I remember 🙂

[Robert C]

The wiring is indeed fragile, but the frame looks so slick!
What I will be doing once I get around to it is covering the exposed wires with some sort of sleeve, wiremesh or paracord. That should give some protection against rubbing.

The only upgrade I can think of is hex screws, and some of the arms are slightly twisted. My copter for instance is always a bit tilted to one side. I will trim that out with some washers under the motor.

Oh, and maybe a warning note in the box not to use loctite.

I wont bother too much with hiding the flightcontroller.

[Spartan]

I can echo what the others said regarding the space inside the frame being a bit tight for all the wiring to fit. I’ve already rubbed through one of the servo wires to the ESC on the rh boom after about 6-8 flights and had to pull it apart and replace it. I would say make sure you leave some slack in the wires so they can move when the booms fold and also try some mesh or something to protect the wiring but I’m not sure how anything more would fit in there.

My tilt also broke after a heavy landing – it landed level and I wouldn’t call it a crash. Not a heavy enough impact that I would expect something to break anyway. It split right through the middle where the servo splines are. Mine is not hollow but it looks as though the part is “laminated” and it split along the lamination. I put it back together with CA and some reinforcing powder so hopefully it will last.

Also, I made my own landing gear as I new I would be hard on it too. It’s made from thin walled 90mm PVC pipe (storm water pipe in Australia) cut into about 8mm thick rings, painted black and zip tied on. It works well – it’s springy and I’ve only broken the zip ties on one once. I’ll put on the nice fancy ones that came with the kit once I know I’m less likely to break them!

[thelonnquist]

I agree with youmanskids, the tail is to weak. I have broken two spline pieces. ( no threadlock on the second) Maybe print with 100% fill?

[Matti]

This is not really about the kit (haven’t really begun putting everything together yet), but rather the recommended setup list: the HobbyKing batteries need to have their connectors changed. Could you please add XT60 male connectors to the list. Should be obvious, but I was still able to overlook it.

Luckily those connectors are common enough and all local stores carry them as well, but this being Christmas-time, I need to spend the rest of the week eating, walking out in the snow with the dogs and playing boardgames with my family instead of playing with my new toy. Ohs noes!

[Terje]

If I wanted to change anything about the kit, I would just do it 🙂 Thank you for the open design, David! ????

So far I have made the nose part 50mm wide and made the front spacer hollow to fit a small 5v BEC. I have made the body 20mm longer to have room for both Rx and flight controller while still being able to access the screws and later fit a canopy. I have added a 10mm hole in the middle of the frame to avoid pinching the servo wires (the wider nose provides the neccesary stability). I have replaced the philips screws with hex. I have altered the tilt mechanism to be able to use up to 40mm motors. I have fitted a brushless gimbal to the front by turning the camera plate 180 degrees. Drilled holes 15mm from end of booms instead of 18mm to get more room for my AWG16 wires (opposite end of boom)

[Tiernan85]

For the most part everything is great! It all works as intended.

The main thing I would consider doing, but this would possibly increase production costs/time slightly, is to chamfer the edges of the frame. Currently they are very sharp. Looks great, but any accidental snag of motor/servo/esc wires generally results in an exposed wire. Chamfered edges would eliminate that.

[Tiernan85]

Oh, I also think a CNC aluminum tilt mechanism would be good. I’ve had no problem with mine, but it would be the one part I would change to aluminum if anything.

[hixair]

More zip ties in the kit!
More seriously, this kit is very well thought and there is not much room for improvement, i would have liked hex screws. I accidentally cut a power wire while closing and arm without checking if mechanism was free of movement, i understand from what i read that it’s the reason you used mesh to cover wires, i will probably think about it !

+1 for the aluminium tail mechanism !

[youmanskids]

David, the tilt mechanism broke on the motor mount side, where the servo splines fit in. I tested the strength of the remaining portion of the tilt/motor mount and found it very brittle. the center of the part is not solid, about 50% printed structure, the outer shell is 3mm solid. Im not sure if you are trying to save weigt or material, but the mechanism needs to be tougher. Maybe it was just this one, I dont know. overall though, I love this tricopter. she is very stable , I love the way it banks and turns like a fixed wing but then pulls into a hover!!. thanks David, I hope this helps. I have two more tilt mechanisims on the way for back up parts. Roger Y

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