[donnyb]

Well its in a working condition. it actually prints better than my kit. I had to settle for 300mm x 300mm heat bed. till I can get a nice piece of aluminum. my print area is 275x275x275.

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[donnyb]

I couldn’t help to chime in here. I would get a separate switching bec (ubec) and power your receiver, flight controller, servo And camera. Preferably 5 to 8 amp. It may seem a bit overkill but it keeps the temperatures on the esc down. Most esc have a thermal shut down. The heat sink on a esc is not capable of cooling 20 amps of heat dispersion. Even worse the esc are covered in a thick blanket of plastic. I discovered this on my first quad. It would randomly turn left. Lol

[donnyb]

@ Terje I should have done that. Lol But if I cancel the order might be another month or better before I see anything. That’s the down fall of china. Everything here is just plain expensive.

As for the ball screw. Looks like a good idea but I already built the printed parts. From the center of the lead screws and the reinforcement rods is 17mm.

I may redesign it later.

[donnyb]

I bought 8 meters of the extrusion. And to get 16 pcs. I had to cut them in half. Sold in 1 meter pcs. My z axis will be shorter less than 400 mm well i hope. Lol
Otherwise I’ll have to trim off the top. I think I’ll be lucky to get a 300 mm print area. SSo far the prices art that bad compare to a kit. I found the mini fabrikator driver board is a mks-base v1.3. That’s the same as my 3d printer board. And it can do 12 to 24 volts. I may be shooting for 12v parts are easier to get. Haven’t gotten the heated bed. they are pretty pricey.

[donnyb]

I had to resize it and crop it. Lol

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[donnyb]

I been working on a larger printer. I chose this one on thingaverse. Most of what I’m doing is virtually the same. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:756841

With the exception of enlarging to 500mm. So far the frame is sturdy and the printed parts are ridged. Only problem is banggood is out of stock on the 400mm lead screws. So I’m waiting and working on the other printed parts. I’ll put up a photo soon.

[donnyb]

A little pricey for what you get. Lol no extruder power supply, lead screws belts. , That rounds out to be worth about to be around a hundred bucks or 150.00

[donnyb]

Yes. I made that mistake also. The ones like that don’t have a built in driver for the sound. it sort of a small speaker, you may get small pops but nothing else. What are you going to use buzzer for? For monitoring the battery conditions I use a GT POWER 2-8S LIPO VOLTAGE TESTER CHECKER/LOW VOLTAGE ALARM. It blinks and makes a lot of noise.

[donnyb]

Being in the u.s. i couldn’t say a temperature for certain, but anything over 15 watts is way to much. Too hot and you’ll damage the foil on the board (pulls off)
Larger solder irons is good for the thick wires.

I would get some de-soldering wick where you soldered and absorb the excess solder. I seen a excess solder on the board in your video. If not able to get it easy i would get a piece of stranded copper wire and put a bit of rosin flux on it and absorb with that.

If your not sure how to do it, i will give you a crude instruction. Add a small but of flux on your stranded wire and act like your soldering it to your blob. the stranded wire will suck up the solder on the board. While everything is still hot pull the wire away from your board. Trim of the solder on your wire and do it once more.

Check the back side of the board for extra solder. Sometimes solder can flow over two connections, that’s called a bridge and those are bad.

[donnyb]

Hey O, Maybe you could film your computer as your flashing. If you could get the computer screen and the naze in the shot could help find a solution. Also, your a little rough with the USB connector you should be very gentle. Also upload some close up photos of solder area.

[donnyb]

I forgot. Make sure you didn’t de-solder anything other than what you installed.

If you look at the board closely you may be able to hook up a ftdi cable to it… You would have to ask Dave.

[donnyb]

Hold on! Don’t panic…. It didn’t lose the magic smoke it might be fine. check for solder bridge near the area you soldered and opposite side. Just go over it really good to make sure you didn’t add too much solder.

[donnyb]

FAA Sued In Federal Court Over Drone Registration Rules.

http://www.forbes.com/sites/johngoglia/2016/01/04/faa-sued-in-federal-court-over-drone-registration-rules/

I thought posting this was kind of good news. It’s all in the works.

[donnyb]

The Federal Aviation Administration confirmed Friday afternoon that information logged in its fledgling UAV registry will be searchable by the general public — just not initially. In an email to Forbes, an FAA spokesperson stated, “Until the drone registry system is modified, the FAA will not release names and address. When the drone registry system is modified to permit public searches of registration numbers, names and addresses will be revealed through those searches.”

There has been some confusion over the matter as the FAA’s registry FAQ states that the agency, the contractor that it hired to operate the registry and law enforcement which had led some to believe that only those three entities would have access to the information. However, the FAA did state in its Department of Transportation filing that “all records maintained by the FAA in connection with aircraft registered are included in the Aircraft Registry and made available to the public, except email address and credit card information submitted under part 48 [of the registry].”

[donnyb]

I’ve been deeply concerned since the f.a.a. have been involved in the radio control crafts. And if I only had one small quad or tricopter (rtf) It could be solved by tossing it to the bin and not worrying about a $27,000 fine.
But just like Dave and flitetest. I too have a bit more to lose. I been getting request from people to design and build multirotors. It instantly stopped since f.a.a. involvement.

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