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can´t either see my own post on the rcexplorer site. we can also chat over normal email accout – my adress is
[email protected]. Please tell me yours as well if you don´m mind.
However i got your response forwarded from rcexplorer.
The info about motors are missing. I use the kk2 board as well , so we can share the settings, or the even better way for you is, to check Davids video posts about it. There is no way you can learn more about tricopter 🙂
To find faulty ESC or motors the first thing to do is: check for a funny “electronic smell”. If there isn´t you can power up and listen to the beeps . If there is no difference to before the crash, everything should be ok.
If the Motors are loose just fix them quick , demount the props !!! and power up the tricopter. After arming the board the Motors should start to smooth run all at the same time.
Unfortumately i dont know how to check the simon K firmware on the ESC. The “plush” usually come without. Did you build your tri yourselve or bought it from somebody? if you bought it, just ask the seller.
it is good to hear someone is still using the good old kk Board for trikopter. The new stuff seems to be quite good as well, but much more complicated and more expensive. Therefore i came back from Naze boards and fly my 2.5 style- DIY – just for fun – Tri. with a KK2 board again.
My experiance tells , if the KK-Tri. flys bad after a crash, you must check a few things:
– is the tilt Servo and the linkages to the rear motor OK. I had worn out plastic servolevers, which caused the same behaviour as you described.
– do all motors start the same time and run OK.
– If not you must check the motors separate with an extra esc and check all esc´s separate with an extra motor to find out what goes wrong.
If you need more help please post some pictures and show your Coptes size and PID settings as well.
As myselfe is most times alone on the field i had the same problem.
Made quite good experiance with the camera (gopro) mounted on the mountinplate of a headlamp.
During flying (not FPV) your head always automaticly tracks the plane or copter and head movements are easy controllable for quick flybys or smooth movements. Therefore the object most times appears in the middle of the picture. Just dont go to far away from your stand, otherwise it looks like a fly and not a plane on the video. Please give me some feedback …
Thanks for the hint. I´d love to test this “Fork”? but have no clue how to?
Could you explain what to do?
just had an opportunity to test the new triflight 05b firmware on my DIY tricopter. As expected from you developers the flying performance is awesome. Great work, THX!!
Regarding to the GPS functionality, which has been relaunched in this release – well, there is some need for improvements. 😉
First of all I experienced, i could not arm the board while GPS was connected and powered. The workaround method is to de-connect the GPS power – arm the board– reconnect GPS and wait for a 3D fix. Then take of.
Not quite practical, but so i could do more testing.
Once in the air, I could not get a stable position hold, Tri. just drifted away with the wind. Return to launch worked mostly as expected. On activating, Tri. turned around nose to the arming point, sometimes it proceded back to the arming point and rotated again after passing it, sometimes it started to drift away after the turn.
Do You see a chance to improve those bugs?
good job! Would you mind to post some pictures to show the connection and adjustments ?
“a picture tells more than thousand words”
Thanks for this background information and for the links. That’s what i was searching for.
This is actually the first forum, which i use active and will have to learn the does and don’ts etc.
Laucha mentioned yesterday, he will implement the gps funktion in the new cleanflight merge
(reply #26421 “I think it’ll work again in the new Cleanflight merge. I think I’ll be able to test it next week as I’m on vacation :).” )
I still hope David will answer my questions, as it was realated to the newest tricopter and electronics kit he sells. Maybe i placed the topic in the wrong categorie? What do you think?
here is the foto of my “dragonfly”. You will see, no dampingplate. Was just too lazy to build one ;-).
This kopterdesign is based on a much bigger centerplate made of GFK. The slider bracket for Battery (purple) and gimbal (blue) have simular design. I use those sliders to be able to adjust the CG at the right point no matter which components (batterys, gimbals etc.) are mounted. If your setup your TRI. with the same components all the time , you will not need these. Myselfe likes to keep it flexible in this point. This system i use on several copters, even on my semiprofessional ” Multikopter Hexa XL”.
Thanks for respose, folks
Still try to find out the mystics of Naze 🙂
For power feed, i use the ESCs BEC. Rear one for tail servo , left one for naze and all other electronics.
For LEDs/FPV gear and gimbal supply , i use a selfmade distribution board with just a few connectors on it. This is plugged in to the Batterys balancer plug.
One tip from my side (is maybe obsolete, you decide):
Setup you Tri. step for step. First make shure it flies well, then again stepwise, add all the gimmicks to it. To get in the air quicker you could use a normal ESCs BEC (which maybe lay around unused in your workshop) for power supply until the UBEC arrives.
@ laucha: Thanks for the great job you did on the triflight-naze firmware. It works pretty for me, even without extra tail-servo wire. We rely on you!
@ Bengt: thanks for advice. I´m quite non experianced to use any forums. Please be patient with me 😉
just found out how to start a new topic ……
I´m runnig a 2.5 style Tri. since 4 weeks with a Naze32 10dof board (kompass and baro already included)
My problem: Can´t find a way to connect the gps. The usual connections, Tx on Pin3 and Rx on Pin4 on the Naze board doesn´t work, while using th newest triflight firmware. It works well with normal cleanflight tricopter firmware. Could you please explain how you connect the gps to your board to make it work?
both of this Feiyu-Tech mini gimbals are awesome in quality and behaviour.
On the tricopter, i found the 3axis gimbal more usefull. Why?
– I used a APM mini board on my TRI. when i did the gimbal tests. I recognized that the tail was slightly moving (Yaw) all the time. You would not see this looking at the flying copter, but you can see it on the footage, if the 2-axis gimbal is mounted. The 3axis completely compensates this movement.
Therefore, even on higher price and weight, i would recommend the 3axis gimbal for tricopters
Hope this was helpfull for you. For detailed comparison check http://www.feiyu-tech.com/products
If you are interested in the my mounting system i could support the STL file for the bracket (see Picture)
Hi ,just found this discussion about gimbals on a trikopter. As I´ve lately made some tests with
Feiyu 2-axis-mini -and 3-axis-mini gimbals on my Trikopter i´d like to share my experiance with you.
My setup is mostly based on Davids 2.5 design. I´m running hobbykings multistar 2216/900kv (about 220W) with 10×4,5 carbon props and a Turnigy nano 3000mAh 4S Battery.
The gimbals can be mounted on the front end of a 10x10mm square carbon tube, which is screwed underneath the centerplate using shockmounts.
At the end of this bar the Battery holding plate is also mounted on the tube. Both, the gimbal – and the battery holders can be slided forward or backward on the tube. This setup allows to maintain the right CG no matter which Gimbal or battery is used.
As expected the video footage is awesome.
The reactions of the kopter where mostly the same in horizontal flight. Quick loss of altitude should be avoided because there is almost no power reserve availabel
On up to 200g extra weight related to the clean trikopter, flight time droped dramaticly to 5-7 minutes, (even on cold condition about 4°C )
As a next step i added two more arms and motors right where the CG is and run it paralell to the normal right or left arm. This is the Setup you can see at Flitetest called Dragonfly.
Now it is a complete different story. I´m using a 5000mAh 4s Battery on this. The lift is impressive and the kopter got back its primary agility. Flighttime is about 12minutes (still cold). This setup i really can recommend for Gimbal use. Unfortunately i can´t post a picture now , will do soon if you are interested.