[GAntonjo]

Well, it is not the balance leads that should be checked, but the main lead with the XT60 plug. Please, just to take all doubt away, verify with a voltmeter and report back your readings 😉

[GAntonjo]

@daryth: Do you own a multimeter/voltmeter? If you do, put the scale to DC 20V and measure the voltage given at the XT60 of the LiPo battery, plus lead to plus lead, ground to ground lead. IF you get negative reading on the voltmeter there is a fabrication fault in that battery, in which they have swapped red and blue leads coming out from the battery. If so, I would definitely claim replacement of the battery and the value of the 2 fried units you have.

[GAntonjo]

For what it is worth… Landing with forward momentum can very well be the reason your minitri flips. Try to control your landings by hovering nicely before touchdown and don’t drop it to the ground the last “mile”. The minitri is normally stable enough to let you hover centimeters above ground in line of sight flights – prop wash is not a big problem, at least not for me.

[GAntonjo]

Jello is, as you obviously know, due to vibrations combined with the rolling shutter of the camera. The only way to get rid of jello is to “eat” it 😉 And by that I mean, make sure your props are very well balanced and if possible, also balance your motors. I know, balancing the motors is not so easy, but using this video as an inspiration, it should be possible to use CleanFlight motor tab to speed up one motor after the other and check vibration graphs from the FC to see where the point of least vibrations could be:

That is if you don’t want to build the Dynamic Prop Balancer from https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2337523-Dynamic-Propeller-Balancer-Build 😉

[GAntonjo]

Not being a skilled FPV pilot, I cannot tell you “Sure it can”. However, I have flown my miniTri (with stock V1 motors, V1 ESCs and F3FC Frame) with TriFlight 0.5,recommended PIDs and successful tail tunes enough times to tell you it is a very capable machine. You can fly it smoothly and slowly if you like and you can punch out all you like. Last few times I flew it inside a mountain hall used for handball and such sports. A short punch on the throttle could cause it to crash in the roof, but due to the performance of the minitri I had no problems looping and rolling the minitri inside hall. Outside in the flying fields making slow loops and rolls are no problems at all. The only disadvantage a tricopter has versus a quad (in my view) is the strength of the servo gears.

[GAntonjo]

Just one advice. Use a separate BEC to power the LEDs. That way you will be less likely to have a flight controller fail due to overloading the BEC used to power the FC. Also, the addressable LEDs often like max 4.7 V due to technical limitations in how the high and low pulses on the signal cable are detected.

[GAntonjo]

The guide for unbricking the old NAZE Frame is here:
Guide: Unbricking the NAZE32 frame.

Then, if you are looking for any version of the firmware that should run on this, I believe you are safe to go with https://github.com/lkaino/Triflight/releases/download/0.5/triflight_0_5_NAZE.hex (from https://github.com/lkaino/Triflight/releases). The https://github.com/lkaino/Triflight/releases/download/0.5/triflight_0_5_F3FC.hex version is for the newer F3FC frame.

Good luck.

[GAntonjo]

And meanwhile in Norway our Civil Aviation Authority’s rules are “cooked down” to this simple rules for drones:
http://www.luftfartstilsynet.no/selvbetjening/allmennfly/droner/dronelek/Drone_Guide

5 main rules:

1. Always fly line of sight and never close to accidents of any kind.
2. Never fly closer than 5 km from an airport, unless explicitly agreed with the airport.
3. Never fly above 120 meters above ground level.
4. Never fly above festivals, concerts or sports events. Keep a distance of 150 meters horizontally.
5. Respect the privacy of others. Remember the rules for use of photo and video of other persons (i.e. don’t publish unless accepted by the involved persons).

Pretty simple rules that can be followed by anyone. In addition we have rules that apply for members of RC Model clubs. Simply put, LOS and height rules does not apply when flying in connection to an RC Club.

[GAntonjo]

@flying_flynn: Regarding CPPM on the AR8000 RX, that receiver does not have CPPM output. You might however succeed in connecting its satellite receiver to the NAZE32 frame (ref: https://www.reddit.com/r/Multicopter/comments/2zmqg0/help_with_naze_32_and_spektrum_reciever). If you have it bound to your TX through the AR8000 RX, the process of connecting it to the NAZE32 frame should be pretty straight forward. Only remember that you have to use 3.3V (not 5V !!!) to power it or you let out the “magic blue smoke” that is hidden inside it 😉

I believe others around here can explain this better than I, because have never used Spectrum. I am using a FrSky Taranis TX with X4R-SB RX.

[GAntonjo]

Don’t worry, @flying_flynn. None of us have come to where we are in this hobby knowing everything from the start;-) Best pay back is:

1. Respect the laws where you fly so no bad news articles “put gasoline” on the “ban drones activists’ bonfire”.
2. Only fly in areas where you cannot hurt other people or their stuff.
3. Teach what you learn to other (newcomers) in your area.

Building and flying your first multicopter can be compared to jumping a parachute. By reading manuals, searching for relevant information, getting help from “professionals” and so on upfront, you learn all the basic needed to fly safely. Learning how to check your gear (multicopter or parachute) before each flight is a crucial skill necessary for safe flights. Sure, buying a RTF DJI Phantom or a RTF packed parachute and taking it for a first flight without checking that all is OK may end well – BUT most likely you will brake something. So, please make sure your tricopter is working correctly before putting propellers on and make sure you fly safely every time you go for a flight;-)

[GAntonjo]

As for the AR8000 RX, the manual (https://www.spektrumrc.com/ProdInfo/Files/SPMAR8000-Manual.pdf) states pretty well how to bind it to the DX8 transmitter.

[GAntonjo]

The upload error is not related to number of files, but to the size of each file. You have to resize the picture to a size smaller than 512 KBytes. Depending on the complexity of the picture is would mean less than 1280×720 pixels (or a bit larger with stronger compression). If you don’t know how to do it on your computer, visit http://www.wikihow.com/Resize-a-JPEG for a possible online service you could use to resize the picture.

I personally use http://www.faststone.org/FSViewerDetail.htm as my tool for viewing and quickly resize my pictures.

[GAntonjo]

A quick google reveals that there has been problems related to the DX8 and Orange RX receivers. Problem is that most of the links are very old, and as such I don’t trust them as valid. However, looking at your problem description, I believe the reason for your problems are related to your transmitter/receiver combination.

Since you have figured out that the servo is working, using it to test the Orange receiver could be a solution. Take the job it is to disconnect the receiver from the NAZE32 Frame and plug the servo to channel 1 of the orange receiver. Power up the receiver with a suitable power supply. Move the sticks on your transmitter and verify which one makes the servo move. Repeat this for channels 2 to 6 on your receiver and you should eventually be able to tell if the receiver is working as expected. Write down the channel order so you can use this later to correctly map sticks to correct inputs of the NAZE32 Frame.

If you do confirm that the transmitter/receiver combination is working, reconnect the receiver to the NAZE32 frame, making sure ground and signal pins on the receiver is connected to corresponding signal and ground pins on the NAZE32 Frame. Actually, since you can rearrange the channel order in CleanFlight Configurator, you may connect the receivers channel in any order you like to the NAZE32 Frame’s RX inputs.

[GAntonjo]

@flying_flynn: Hmmm… This seems strange. Can you take good pictures of your connections, and if possible also upload CLI dump and Backup file from CleanFlight Configurator? Sometimes pictures tell more than thousand words, you know.

Also, please tell us which transmitter and receiver you are using and in which mode you have it connected to the NAZE32 Frame.

[GAntonjo]

Hi, @Bengt.
Sure, I have thought of the possibility that I have a broken cog inside the servo, but then again – when I the night before replaced all gears of the servo om my V4, I noticed that the repaired servo could spin infinately. Even so, the servo worked perfectly after powering it up and I could center the tilt mechanism on the servo with no problem. However, on the V4 I cannot run tail tune, as I am using the iNavFlight on that one (using a SPRF3 Clone FC). I flew the V4 also without problems in the same winds as the MiniTri, but I see that I have some tuning to do in order to filter out the oscillation it has on yaw axis. I recon the PIDs from the “iNav” thread here are not perfect for my V4;-) I have not downloaded the log from the SPRF3 memory, so I cannot tell exactly how much I have to adjust the PIDs.

Broken spline might very well be possible, and as such I might end up with a spinning MiniTri one day:-p Hopefully it will not “lock” in leftmost position when in the middle of a critical maneuver – lol.

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