[LeoTheHuman]

Is the roll stable, or does it roll more and more? Can you counteract that with a stick in a certain position, or you have to move the stick further and further from center? In the first case, acc trim is your friend, in the second one – your accelerometer gets drift from vibration.

[LeoTheHuman]

You can put a GoPro on it, if that’s what you’re asking. But it won’t be so smooth and won’t fly that long.

[LeoTheHuman]

That doesn’t sound right. How do you arm? How do you disarm? Can you show us the video of your cleanflight-configurator receiver tab when the usb and the battery are plugged in and the props are off? Please, put the throttle to 0 and release other sticks first. Then arm and give it some throttle. Keep recording the receiver tab. What is the output of “get deadband” command in CLI?

[LeoTheHuman]

It is, but you get extra weight of an extra balance plug with wires and the parallel wiring harness. I’ve been flying two big 2s batteries and two small 4s batteries in my V3, it was fine. Just keep in mind that charging two batteries instead of one is also a challenge.

[LeoTheHuman]

There is a good chance you have your servo speed set up incorrectly. Did you use tailtune? What is your result? Video would also help.

[LeoTheHuman]

These are just very different. Get the upgrade pack and the mini, I would say.

[LeoTheHuman]

Well, you can route the wires from ESCs directly to FC. You can’t use the pins 1 & 2 for different frequencies of PWM, because they share the same timer, I believe. If you run the servo and ESCs at the same PWM frequency, you can use pins 1-4, but you’ll need to modify the code.

[LeoTheHuman]

I’m not sure they fit in the first place. I believe they are designed for 10mm ID, not 10mm OD tubes. If you feel like heat is an issue, you can fill the gap between the ESC and the tube with the heat transferring dielectric compound.

[LeoTheHuman]

My first FPV roll and flip attempts. F1-4B 2205 2633kV, DALprop 4045BN triblades @ 4S. First frame I was comfortable to learn on, after I crashed and completely destroyed Eachine Q200 trying to do a roll LoS.

[LeoTheHuman]

Post the pictures of the connections and the soldering.

[LeoTheHuman]

I believe that ESC blowing up has nothing to do with the rest of it. These ESCs are known to go bad. Good news though, they usually do it early, not after many successful flights, so if you put it through its paces, and it survives, it should work fine till you crash really hard. (:

[LeoTheHuman]

If your ESCs make initialization sounds at different time when you plug the copter in, it means they don’t get the clean signal from FC. Make sure you keep that thin ESC ground wire on the tricopter connected to FC, otherwise your ESCs don’t have a clean ground reference.

[LeoTheHuman]

Liquid electrical tape is quite easy to remove. ESCs are most important to cover. I would rather use conformal coating on other stuff like FC, especially integrated one, as there will be some rubbing there, which might be quite bad for liquid tape.

[LeoTheHuman]

Please, post the pictures of the soldered pin headers and plugged in servo.

[LeoTheHuman]

You can try calibrating whatever firmware is on at the moment once again. 14.0 should do just fine. Props off! Battery off. Sliders on the motors tab all the way up. Plug the battery in. 2 sec later sliders all the way down. This should calibrate ESCs to the same throttle range.

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