[LeoTheHuman]

I don’t see any problems with ordering the kit now, getting a Naze32 board somewhere else and then just flashing it with the latest software when it’s ready. I’ve actually built one with Naze32 recently (no GPS or FPV yet), but it flies relatively stable. It does all I want it to do while wobbling a little bit at the same time. All I’ve done is lowered P for pitch and roll increasing D at the same time. Yeah, BTW, I mounted the board on the dampening plate. There’s some space in front of the battery.

I believe it will behave much better when David and Co release the update, though, and I will be ready to flash. Going to order more parts for a baby-tri. Will use shorter booms and 250 sized stuff on it, but will definitely keep the tray (shortened a little bit), as it’s AWESOME! (:

[LeoTheHuman]

This is a linear BEC, so if you’re running it at 4S, it will dissipate more than 70% as heat while the battery is full. Which means, for every Watt your electronics is drawing you will dissipate at least 2W of power as heat. On 3S it should “only” dissipate a little bit over 50% of power as heat, so it should not be that bad. I would suggest to disable it and get a proper switching UBEC (like the one here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251610080014), which will save you some power and a lot of trouble with heat (make sure to add filtering if you’re running sensitive FPV gear, though). I really have no idea why David is including this “suboptimal” option in his kit. That is only good if you’re using it on 2S, which is not going to happen with the weight of this frame. Don’t take me wrong, the PDB is great, but it definitely doesn’t need a built-in linear regulator to 5V. I would prefer 2 separate switching regulators to 12V and 5V. I’m running the 5V (actually, 5.5V, thanks to the fact it can be easily adjusted) right now for FC and receiver and will incorporate 12V one as soon as I get to mounting the LEDs and FPV gear.

If you are also connecting one of the BECs on your ESCs to your setup, that is a totally different problem, which should be addressed with a chainsaw. (:

[LeoTheHuman]

Basic and understandable answer of most FPV pilots is: if you want to control the video stability, disable auto level. I’m just learning to fly the tricopter, but it feels much easier to understand what the craft will do next if the board doesn’t try to stabilize. And it makes for much more predictable video. It’s much easier to learn flying without auto-leveling from scratch, though…

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