[ME-tan]

Heya, no one makes woven square tube like that any more, however, I have found a way to adapt woven CF circular tube so they can work with the frame. Basically, 3d printing some pieces to epoxy on to the ends of the tube to make them square. The results are actually quite strong, and you can buy the CF tube on amazon so it’s really easy to get.

I currently have my tailboom done with this, but see no reason why it won’t also work with the front booms, as long as you can drill straight holes in it.

[ME-tan]

Heya, I’m regularly in and around Surrey if that helps, Have a V4, and once this pandemic is over could meet in the middle somewhere.

[ME-tan]

Get some blue threadlock on there. Essential for anything that screws into anything that might vibrate, but the nylock shoiuld be fine for now as long as it’s a fresh one.

[ME-tan]

I printed mine in SLA and it seemed fairly strong, wasn’t aware of brittleness issues with that kind of print so I’ll take that into consideration. I can destructively test a piece and compare possibly as I have access to both kinds of printer.

I’m still planning the rest of my build and haven’t bought components yet so I’ll see how this thread develops. Out of interest, is the testing for this happening on the Kakute or the Matek FCs? I see people talking about using both and haven’t decided on which one yet.

[ME-tan]

Here you go, made a thing, post contains pictures of both how the tilt mech mounts and the overall finished boom:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3904765

I made a tail boom, but should be able to modify it to work on the folding booms too.

Long term, I might make a modified version of the V4 that’s just designed to use tubular booms from the ground up

[ME-tan]

I ran into the exact same problem, I just worked out a way to use 10mm CF tube instead, and it feels quite solid. I’ll upload the 3d printed thing I made to do that and post it’s own thread about it at some point this week.

[ME-tan]

Eh, decided to fix the V4 and do the LR from scratch. Please delete.

[ME-tan]

Right, From Triflight 0.5, used the cleanflight configurator to flash the dRonin .hex file for f3fc from the post on 23rd December, using the dRonin GCS from the same build, used rescue button to flash the rescue file posted on 24th, I also erased the settings partition for good measure, am still getting this:

Anyone know where I’m going wrong here?

[ME-tan]

OK reverted the spare board back to TriFlight 0.5 to test it and it won’t boot on that either, so my boot loop is probably a hardware fault.

I tried to flash my newly rebuilt tricopter with a fresh FC on it, and it still doesn’t work though, so I’m probably doing something wrong. I’ll experiment with it a bit when i’m more awake

[ME-tan]

Yep I’m finding that. When the legs work they work really well, I have cracked them a couple of times though, always in the part the clips to the boom, not the springy legs themselves.

Printer is down for maintenance so will get some ABS and try it with that once its back up.

[ME-tan]

I will also test with my spare board over the weekend and try the above suggestions

[ME-tan]

Still stuck in a boot loop after flashing that, assuming i did it right. I’ll try it another couple of times.

[ME-tan]

I’m happy to send you my extra one if you don’t mind putting up with the dodgy USB port. I’m UK based if that helps

[ME-tan]

Confirmed, MY integrated F3FC is also apparently stuck in a boot loop after flashing dRonin for f3fc

[ME-tan]

Yeah I’ll see if I can persuade it to work long enough to flash it and connect to it. I’ll also keep an eye out for something with a working USB socket I can salvage and change it out

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