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Hi Ben, this should be PIN 4 (the one labeled “2” next to your RX input on the upper side of the board). See also here http://shipow.github.io/cleanflight-web/docs/board-naze32.html

Have not tried it myself but I hope this works for you 😉

Best, Rue

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670g w/ Naze32 as separate controller, 1800 4S NanoTech and the old DYS motors

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Traced it back – it’s on the Inputs side on pin 4… Works 😉

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Check the controller board after you desoldered the connection to the BEC. If the blown BEC causes a short on the 5V rail the controller board won’t work on USB. If you’re lucky your controller still works and you can just remove the dead BEC and use an external regulator as substitute. Best of luck!

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Just a little feedback on betaflight – tried 2.9 on the mini today and knowing that Boris has changed a lot regarding how rates are handled I first tried it with stock PID, Filters and rates and found that it flies fantastic – never had such a good “tune” on my various attempts with previous versions of Clean- and Betaflight (as I have not implemented servo feedback on my mini yet I can’t compare to triflight).

Would be interesting to know if someone else has tried this…

Cheers, Rue

Forgot to mention: I’m running the classic DYS1800 setup

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Thanks, Terje, looks really nice on the video 😉 Initially intended to go for a little lighter motors like 2212 or 2208 but it seems the setup you suggest is fun. Do I correctly expect the “in-between mini and V3” flight behaviour?

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Funny – I’ve also toyed with building sth. slightly larger than the Mini along pretty much the setup you describe (one doubt I have is around the RS2205 as I feel they would not be the best choice for props larger than 6′ – maybe sth. we could discuss in a dedicated thread) And I will definitively wait for the new board 🙂

I have a set of replacement gears for the 390 from Bluebird (the 210s were not available back then) – unfortunately they do not contain the little steel axle the “second” gear wheel is running on (the one that drives the main shaft which gets usually broken) and this axle often gets bent, too.

@David: If you contemplate offering a replacement kit, this little axle should be part of it. But if Terje is talking about “way better” I assume we’re not talking replacement kits 😉

Has anyone tinkered with some mechanism that limits the peak force on the shaft?

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I have successfully resurrected both BMS390s (on my V3) and the BMS210 on my Mini. First time I initially doubted that I’ll get all gears sorted in again but it actually works quite well and in the end it’s just a matter of ~10-20 minutes to give your servo a second life by turning the main spline 180°

Super easy on the 390 because it’s symmetrical and you just have to remove a splint intended to mechanically limit the rotation and re-insert it.

Reworking the BMS210 is also matter of just a few minutes despite the additional filing, you can even leave it all wired up on your tri, disassemble the upper part of the case, get the main spline out… When re-inserting the spline I supported the potentiometer from the other side (with a litte Allen wrench) to make sure I’m not bending it inwards.

The super tiny Torx on the BMS210 can be turned nicely with a regular 1mm screw driver.

Be careful not to overtighten the case screws (did that on a 390 where this cracks some plastic parts of the case that then stick to the screws and are painful to get out again).

So – all in all – I would definitively encourage you to give it a try. Feels good to have a servo afterwards that feels and behaves all fresh with no slack 😉

BTW – how did the HV servos hold up so far?

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My order of these batteries is stuck since April 19th for reasons no-one from the hotline can tell me… Will make sure to check them on arrival.

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Thanks @lauka – that was a timely hint 😉

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@aoym – your slow yaw is due to the missing YAW rate setting. I think that also roll & pitch feel sluggish like that. Up your rates to 0.3 – 0.7 and depending on how snappy/quick you want it. Also check the expo setting on the receiver tab (unless you use expo on the Tx).

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Hi Colby,

best of luck for your next attempt – I’d suggest that (after checking the stand-alone board USB powered only) you power it up via the BEC without anything else connected (no becs / servo / Rx / other serial stuff). If this works, remove power again, plug in the components one at a time and power it up inbetween to check the state of affairs. In case one of the connected circuits short the board you’d find it out.

Btw: have you checked the single arms by plugging the ESCs into one channel of the RX letting the motor spin / servo turn manually?

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Thanks, sscott. Will check this out.

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@PlanB, thanks for the hints! Will try both 😉

Your video looks quite smooth – did you deactivate active breaking just on the tail ESC or on all three?

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Checked what’s happening with the tri suspended – same pattern & amplitudes. Then tried what’s happening when spinning up single motors. One did not induce vibrations, the other two had had their 3-5 noisy spots where you could also sense the frame vibrating. Strangely, not all these spots induced a reaction on the ACC readings while one could clearly feel (and hear) that there’s a resonance with the frame happening.

Wondering if these vibrations impact the horizon mode as I see these gradually increasing drifts in various firmware versions and have never seen the issue on the V3 where I have mounted the Naze32 on a foam pad.

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