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need some serious help with my baby tri with kakute f4 v2 and using dronin. i cant get the program to recognize my board. worked in the past but i decided to do a fresh start. i need the hex for this board for dronin.
problem was solved, thanks to another post you answered, i found out it was my servo direction was incorrect, it flies! sadly its starting to rain so no autotune and servo cal today…. thank you kevin!
thank you! this is totally my issue and it solved it! never thought about the servo being reverse!
i will check them out, i started over and reflashed/went through from total beginning back to autotune. this time motor temps are fine and the motoor doesnt jerk, but slowly raising throttle the servo sharply moves to a side and i do a wild spin. totally dont feel like i messed anything up, been watching each step over and over.. to me with quads, this is a “roll/flip” of death. imma hook it up and look at this dronin app and look back through. before trying to move over to dronin, and before i upgraded to the kakutef4v2, it worked pretty well with some minor yaw authority issues, but non the less it flew..
Well ,made a new discovery. Thought it was gonna work because bench test was going well. But for some reason it got my fc really warm, I mean really warm. It automatically disarmed itself so I can’t fly. If I unplug the vtx from the FC, all is good. I can fly, no over heating. So I don’t think I can use the vtx03.
So it’s resolved. Not enough power. Routed the cameras pos and neg to the current sensor and ground on the pdb respectively. No more issues!
Okay I gave it one more go after letting it sit for a little bit and I got a clear picture and after a little while it pops to black and white thick bars. I have noticed that my Servo for the tail make some slight buzz sound for a little while and that’s when I’m getting good video feed. after a little bit the buzzing stops, it seems like the copters just waiting to take off and that’s when I get the thick black and white bars. I’ve completed the tail tune on the bench and in flight correctly.I have followed David video to the T. everything is set up exactly as his build in the video except I’m trying to use the eachine vtx03 instead of the unify Pro HV from TBS.
Resolved, I had sbus in wired up instead of sbus out/cppm out
Waiting on props and more little zip ties. Last attempt to tailtune, I switched out just to fly lightly because I need my flying fix, it went towards a wall and I’m not exactly tuned to the baby Los because I need some indication of front and back. Well trying to yaw it slightly and away from a wall, I couldn’t tell it’s forward facing direction and when it hit, the zip ties broke so the tail motor and swivel platform are not attached, so minor damage.
That’s exactly my issue now, it does fly very nicely when not trying to calibrate it. Sadly it’s winter still and only place I can kinda fly(hover) is the community basketball court. It’s not huge but big enough, still the drifting makes it impossible because I don’t wanna move the sticks. So waiting untill a perfect window in spring. Tuning and centering at home without throttle but mostly angling the degrees from center wasn’t too bad. Due to manufacturing of the servo, I couldn’t get absolute perfect upwards center, but close enough. I figured there was a way to adjust the servos to a new center point but I’m not entirely sure how to, I’m fairly new to any kind of adjustments on the tx or pids, so I’m not gonna try untill I find very well explained and demonstrated videos about all this. I would try acro adjustments for a nice hover but I must change my stick rates a huge amount because the baby response is very sensitive and I’m still a new flyer who started late in the year so minimal flying experience atm. A little bit back to the in home tail tune, after I performed it, I checked in the clinic in betaflight with diff, servo 5 inputes where roughly: (min) 1100-ish, (mid) 1500-ish, and (max) 1860-ish. So after reading the trip setup guide I figured the ideal range with tail tune is min: 1000, mid: 1400, max: 1800 (400=40°). So I changed the parameters of the servo 5 input to those exact numbers figuring it’s honestly a small change so it wouldn’t really affect much.
SOLVED!!!!!! randomly found some videos about blheli and no esc response. I found out my esc was getting juice but it was not getting any signal. so I resourced my motor that wasn’t reading to my ppm 1 on the f3fc board after freeing the ppm resource!!!!!!! almost spent money on a new esc!! I dodged a bullet there! all motors work, fixed direction of my one motor, flashed all new firmware to esc’s and all calibrated!
esc is 35A aikon ak32. just redid solderjoints. is it possible I should switch pwm 4(esc 2 that’s not reading) with the servo that’s on pwm 2? that’s the only logical explaination I can go with even though that’s not the guide directions according to davids video.
(ignore photos attached to this reply, refere to next reply please) So I managed to connect into blheli32 configurater. And ESC 2 is non existent with the absolute latest fc firmware one betaflight(see pictures one and two). I wired all esc to fc exactly how David showed and layed out. All ESC work, no wrong wires in misplaces. Is ESC 2 the servo? Because it should be reading that motor that’s not working ATM but it absolutely does work if I do some testing on other programs. Just can’t configure my escs with other programs. This is a nightmare… A headache… I loaded blheli32 with clean flight/betaflight bootloader pass through (picture 3). David recommended to wire ESC to this config to coptor(pic 4) and my escs are wired exactly on my fc(pic 5) exactly how David did. in(pic 4) motor “3” is esc(3) in blheli32, motor “4” is esc(2), and motor “1” is esc 1. I know I’m being a pain but can’t find the help or answers I need.
I bought everything for the baby here so the escs should definitely run blheli. I had ppl confirm this to run with blhelisuite-32. I did get the chrome app and I can connect, put in battery and hit Reasd setup but nothing appears. Blhelisuite-32 will connect and I can calibrate all ESC but I’m having issues with understanding that program and I get a message saying motor one not powered correctly or something even tho it is and I can spin all of them and calibrate all of them, just can’t display each motor and select the one I need to reverse. I got them to work finally after finding out the required hex file and betaflight latestfirmware update both were not suitable for the fc. I had to find a different hex to make it work that’s built for it.
my first build is from futureuav on youtube, and i followed his directions to the wizard 99$ build. everything is connected on 5v on the pdb, everything is the upgraded version he lists, i can gladly reply all that went into the build with a bit of info. but anyways, everything is also sharing the same ground on the pdb, except the buzzer, and also vbat. would this be the common ground or sharing ground? this hobby has so much more behind the scenes to try and grasp and understand. my fpv feed seems to be pretty stable and clear, i could try to do what you suggested with the camera and vtx though to first hand see any differences. everything works pretty fine, no noticeable issues, except for the buzzer. it goes off the whole flight 80%of the time i hook the battery up and arm it. sometimes it doesnt, i have my opinions as to why, and i think it has to do with my runcam split. in betaflight, i turned only a couple of features on for the beeper that wouldnt make it do this. but yea, would you say i built it with sharing a common ground?