Forum Replies Created
@me-tan If I’m not mistaken, Triflight and iNav are firmwares, while CleanFlight and BetaFlight are configurators, so I’m not sure that would make sense.
Some additional advice:
1. Don’t forget to set the channel mapping to “Futaba mode” in the receiver tab in CleanFlight. It should be AETR1234;
2. Also in the receiver tab, set the receiver type to “RX_PPM” or “RX_SERIAL” depending on whether you’re running PPM or S.Bus, respectively;
3. If you choose serial rx, be sure to configure UART 2 for “serial rx” (in the ports tab) and to select the type of serial rx you’re running, in this case SBUS (in the receiver tab).
Another helpful video:
Hope this helps!
If the Futaba receiver you have supports S.Bus or PPM, you can use it with the board. The F3FC setup video should help as well:
@lkaino Thanks for the fast response! The copter is the Tricopter v4 with the stock power pack (Aikon ESCs) and 8×5 props on a 3S 2200mAh battery. My yaw I gain is the same as on the PIDs from the product page (20) unless the tail tune changes that value.
How do I find out the thrust factor (sorry if it’s a simple question; this is my first time using Triflight)?
I know that this is a bit off topic, but I have a question about tail tune on Triflight 0.5. I tried the in-flight tail tune and followed all of the instructions in the video (didn’t touch the sticks, disarmed before turning off tail tune, etc.). Now, whenever I fly backwards with the copter, the yaw drifts quite considerably (nose left, tail right). I’m doing everything exactly how the build and Triflight videos specified, and the tricopter didn’t behave this way before I did the tune.
Any ideas on what the possible cause could be or how this can be fixed? Is there a CLI command to reset the tail tune settings?
Thanks in advance 😀 !
I hope to go! It will be my first Flite Fest 🙂
@dragosc First of all, welcome to the Forum!
Here’s a list of what (in my opinion) is essential to get started:
First, you’ll need a radio system. The prices for them start from about $40-50 and skyrocket to over $1000. When selecting a radio for multirotor use, there are a few features that you want to look for: number of channels, telemetry, and what types of receivers are compatible with the radio itself.
The number of channels will affect how many functions you will be able to have on your copter. The bare minimum is four: throttle, roll, pitch, and yaw. However, having more channels is a must if you want to be able to control more functions. For instance, my Tricopter v4 is set up with eight channels: the four that I just mentioned, as well as four auxiliary channels: one for arming/disarming the copter, one for switching flight modes, one for activating tail tune, and one for activating the beeper. I’d recommend at least six channels, but the more you have the better, as that will give you room to grow.
Another feature to look for on radio systems is telemetry. Telemetry is basically a two-way communication system between the radio transmitter and receiver: the transmitter sends control commands to the receiver, and the receiver sends the transmitter data about the state of various on-board systems. The most important condition by far is the remaining battery capacity. If you over-discharge your battery, your copter will fall out of the sky. Unlike fixed-wing aircraft that can glide for at least some time without power, multicopters will simply drop. Thus, it’s vital to know the state of your battery consumption. Telemetry will allow you to do this: you can use a sensor to measure the battery’s remaining capacity and use the receiver to send that data to your transmitter, which in turn will warn you when your battery is getting low.
Finally, you must examine which receivers are compatible with the transmitter and also if they’re suitable for multicopter use. One function that is somewhat important is the ability to run a single-wire protocol between the receiver and the flight controller, such as PPM or S.Bus. This means that you need only one cable between the receiver and flight controller which saves space and weight.
Here are some systems that I would recommend:
Here are a few Youtube videos that can help you decide:
Of these three, I’d recommend the Turnigy Evolution if you’re on a budget and want something that works fine. But I listed other options so that you can decide on what’s best for you 🙂
Hope this helps! I’ll make some more posts here soon to help you select a few other components. Good luck on your R/C adventures!
Of all three tricopters, I’d recommend the v4 for filming. It’s super smooth and docile, but can also reach impressive speeds if you want. The Mini is nice too, goes faster but has shorter flight times. I wouldn’t go with the Baby though. Just a little too small to get stable shots.
In short, all three will carry a GoPro with ease. The v4 is awesome if you just want smooth shots. The Baby is great at fast and crazy acro flying. The Mini does a little bit of both, plus it can go 100mph. And because you mentioned that you want something small, the Mini would probably be the best choice for you.
Attaching a GoPro to the Mini is easy: just use double-sided tape to attach the quick release mount, and then clip a waterproof housing onto the mount. Place the camera inside and you’re done!
Hope this helps.
Could it be a channel mapping issue? Maybe you have some hidden mix on your radio that you forgot to disable when setting up the model? Just an idea. A video would be helpful. But as Terje said, airmode doesn’t work well on tricopters.
Try checking those things and disabling airmode and let us know how it goes! 🙂
I2C maybe? Not sure.
@dominicg Oh no! Yikes. You should get that RCGroups member to pay for the new electronics (kidding)! 🙂
You might as well upgrade to the new power pack with the Emax motors and Aikon ESCs. Or if you prefer to keep the old motors, they are still available here (albeit without the RCExplorer logo):
Sorry about the damage.
I looked at your video and saw that you’re actually using some other motor. Which one?
🙂6 February, 2017 at 22:31 in reply to: RCExplorer F3FC Racing Should I use 5V from an OSD or Raw? #36422
@aoym Oh. I was just asking because I know that the BabyPDB has a really good regulator that would be able to handle the voltage spikes.
12v sounds like a good plan 🙂6 February, 2017 at 22:26 in reply to: RCExplorer F3FC Racing Should I use 5V from an OSD or Raw? #36420
@aoym Are you using the BabyPDB? If so, I would just use its 5v output to be on the safe side. Or you could use a capacitor (like some people in the FPV community are doing now) to soften voltage spikes and run the board raw.
@dominicg Could it be that you just connected the back ESC to the servo port on the Naze32 and connected the servo to the back ESC port? That was my gut feeling at first; after watching your video, I’m almost certain that that’s the case. If this is indeed the problem, just swap the back ESC and servo connectors on the Naze32 board.
It could also be a channel mapping issue. Spektrum is TAER on channels 1234. Be sure that that’s what you have selected in the receiver tab in CleanFlight.
Either one of these things should solve the issue. Good luck! Keep us posted on your progress 🙂
@dominicg The original built-in Naze32 Frame doesn’t have a UART for connecting a receiver via serial protocol, so you’ll have to run a PPM or parallel PWM receiver. For build instructions, the Mini Tricopter build and Naze32 setup videos will show you all of the hook-ups to the Naze32. The drivers for the F3FC are the same as for the Naze32 frame, just be aware that the firmware target in the firmware flasher page should be “Naze” and not “RCExplorerF3.”
Hope this helps! Good luck with getting your Mini airborne 🙂