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@crazyrcjoe That is insane. Hope you’ll get it resolved. I’ll try and contact the mods there on your behalf to see if something can be done 🙂
I’ve toyed around with couple of ideas about mounting a gimbal to my tricopter. One thing that could potentially be done is mounting a two- or three- axis gimbal to the front spacer; kind of the same idea as on the ImmersionRC XuGong Pro. My only concern is the lack of any vibration dampening system (the XuGong at least has a clean/dirty separation between the motors and the battery/camera compartment).
Another option is to design a small plate that would sit on top of the F3FC board and be held in place with the two screws that hold the front wire holders. The Mini Tricopter uses a plate to attach the cage to the F3FC, so perhaps one could extend this plate forward and mount an underslung gimbal to it with vibration dampening grommets. This would both get the gimbal off the ground and have vibration dampening capabilities.
In order to get the camera/battery tray out of the GoPro view, one could simply mount it backwards, with the wider camera mount part sticking out the back where there’s room.
How does that sound? 🙂
Regarding the battery warnings, you might want to try following this video:
I wish David would do a CF cage. I’d buy one right away!!
I’ve seen people mount cased cameras with 3D printed mounts:
Or you can use LEGOs 🙂 :
I doubt the TBS Core would fit inside the Baby Tricopter… you’ll be amazed at how quickly the available space gets used up! If you want to use an OSD then I’d recommend something much, much smaller like the Micro MinimOSD (someone here had a brilliant idea: tape the Micro MinimOSD onto the back of your board camera!) and use the sensors inside the PDB and F3FC to get readings to the OSD.
Regarding the voltage input for the video transmitter, I honestly don’t know. But the build video uses the same vTx as you do, so if you follow the directions in the video you should be set.
Good luck and happy flying!
I know that you’ve fixed this already, but another cause of a constant beep is a short between the ground pad for power and the ground pad of the beeper circuit.
@fallkon Have you tried opening a support ticket with RCExplorer support? They would certainly have some good input.
@fallkon The reason why I asked for pictures is that it would give me more clues as to what the problem could be. Since you mentioned hot glue on the joints, I would suggest to start with the following: use some de-natured alcohol to remove all of the hot glue. This will allow you to more easily solder wires to the pads. Then re-solder the left ESC signal wires to the F3FC. Let me know if that fixes the issue. If you’ve done tests with the same ESC and wires soldered to the right pad and everything worked fine, my only conclusion is that it’s the left pad that’s causing the problem. Because the board worked fine and there were no crashes, I’m guessing that it’s a poor connection between the board and the wires. Again, it would be a great help to see pictures of your build in diagnosing and fixing the problem.
Good luck! Hope that we can get it resolved. By the way, I’m not completely sure but I don’t think it’s possible to get the PWM signal to the left pad in any other way, unfortunately.
I’d be glad to help. Could you post some pictures? Thanks!
@wynnsquad I am running the v3.0 firmware on my Hero 3 Black and the video out works fine. I think GoPro intentionally disabled the composite out function and left only the HDMI out function on their latest firmware. Not 100% sure why they’d do that, but I think it hasn’t been fixed. Is there any other reason why you want a newer firmware? If heat is your only issue with the firmware you have on you GoPro right now, I’d say leave it as it is or just upgrade to v3.0. Whatever you do, don’t upgrade to the newest release!
Good luck 🙂
Did you get it flying? Sure hope so! 🙂
Thank you all for the wonderful advice! I really appreciate it. Made my choice much easier: I’ll most likely go with a RMRC Hellbender 204 v2 for my freestyle/backyard flyer frame and a Tricopter v4 for AP and long range.
@stefano I’ll send you an e-mail soon 🙂
You can balance the motors using a zip-tie, just like David did in the old days with the DT750s! 🙂