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The strip need 5V and it draws current like crazy when full brightness on all colours. Long strips may need 5V from both ends. Connect signal to the naze board. Connect both ground together.
Have you crashed with your battery and is it balanced?
It could be a sync problem with the motor:
If a commutation time-out or long demagnetization period is detected, the red LED will light. This should not occur in normal operation. Very brief flashes during rapid acceleration indicate that the demagnetization period exceeded the expected zero-crossing point and that countermeasures have been taken to avoid loss of synchronization. The green LED will remain off once running until the power is turned off and the motor stops.
Could be the ball bearings in the motor or unbalanced props perhaps. You could reflash the esc with simonk firmware with the ‘hardware check’ option at to 0. I don’t know if that parameters is used only on startup though. But could be a work around. Or just get a new motor.
Sorry. Read the thread again. As Kevin said, the D4R-II can’t talk with the OSD or FC. You need to connect the stuff you have displayed right now via FAS-100 directly to the minimOSD in parallell.
Battery voltage, current and RSSI is doable as I can read by this schematics:
What kind of sensors do you want to connect to the receiver instead of the flight controller? The D4R-II only have one analog in and PWM RSSI out if I can remember correctly. Some stuff you could connect directly to the minimOSD also. Most stuff you normally connect to the FC. Like GPS for instant. I guess it make sense to use smart port on FrSky X series to connect stuff when you fly a plane which don’t use a FC.
It’s the pitch of the blade. In theory it’s how far your craft will travel in one rotation in solid material. In your case, the lift of your copter. If the pitch is too big, the propeller becomes heavy and demands more power than the engine can reach. (Same if the propeller is longer).
0,2 in your case doesn’t matter much. If you change the numbers to much you need to buy new motors that can cope with rotating the propellers and not draw to much power at the same time it held in the air.
You connect your minimOSD to CC3D on the main port and RSSI from FrSky to minimOSD. Telemetry information is sent from CC3D to the minimOSD. FrSky is connected to CC3D via cppm i guess to control your copter?
Nope. I don’t use them. Sorry.
But when I look at the pictures at FPV Ninjas I see that the props hole is quite small as you say. And the adapter rings are bigger. Perhaps it’s meant to pop them out somehow from the props and then use the adapters? Seems counter-productive to me. It can be that Ninjas use the same picture for all the props perhaps.
All the props I have bought so far have a big hole and you use adapter rings if needed.
EDIT: Hmm… It says that the hub hole is 5mm. Just drill them out with a 6mm drill bit then. The adapter rings should center the hub even if you drill a bit of center. (pun intended)
T-motor should have 6mm shaft. You measure the shaft with threads. The props should have holes for 6mm.
You shouldn’t need any adapter rings.The fit could be really tight. Just try to press them on. If there is a gap you get vibrations.
According to this site (and many others) the pack should include adapter rings to fit 6mm shafts.
It would be the receiver that have the failsafe on signal loss. The receiver control your craft at that point. I have mine set so that it auto levels and then descent slowly. Auto land so to speak. I don’t want it to drop from the sky or fly away. If I got signal back I can fly it away my self. Just don’t fly around trees then 😉
If low battery power is the problem it soon going to be a stone in the sky. No help on that other then a parachute, but they are heavy. You have to check you battery voltage some how before it’s critical. Time, telemetry or a speaker that beeps when it’s low.
On KK2.1 it’s also throttle to a minimum (throttle down) and yaw to the right.10 July, 2015 at 23:58 in reply to: how to calibrate esc's with power distribution frame #17047
You should use the built in power regulator on the PDF (if you purchased that) or use a stand alone ubec to power your FC (flight controller) and receiver with +5V. Your esc shuld still have a signal wire to control the speed with. Connect that to your FC. Use your FC to do the calibration.
Which FC are you using?
ie: You could also calibrate each motor individually by hooking it up directly to your receiver.
Power for a seperate ubec or a cable to your flight controller to check your main voltage. Just an example though. Not needed if you don’t want to use them. Just leave them unconnected.
Well, it seems that both sides are ground/minus. So it should be okey to drill through. Seems like a bad design if one of them is +5V or +3.3V.
I have not measure this with a instrument so don’t take my word for it and blame me if something bad happens.
If you drill, just make sure each plate is not connected to the other. So it wouldn’t matter if one is +5V and the other is ground really. As long they are not connected.