After a very lengthy search I have finally found a source for both 18 and 20mm black button head stainless steel M3 screws. I also managed to get a hold of black M3 stainless nylon lock nuts as well, making the tricopter look very pimp.
The screws are much stronger than the old philips screws. They have a temper rating of 10.9 and have 2mm hex heads that are very low profile. Only downside is that they are more expensive than the old screws so I had to bump up the price of the individual screw packs a bit. The Tricopter kit price however stays the same.
Since the screws showed up one day early the back ordered tricopters will start shipping out tomorrow instead of monday!
Yay, no more stripping the screw with phillip 1.
Hi David !
The new screws look cool 🙂
I was wondering, for people who backordered their V3kit, will it come with the new screws ? 😀
Can’t wait to see your version on the mini tri, just put electronics on that frame 😀
Last question, do you think it’s possible to “thermo fold” the G10 frame ? (I’m not sure it’s the right name off the technique :s)
Cheers ! 🙂
Backordered kits will come with the new screws 🙂
Not sure what you mean by thermo fold?
Heating it up, melt it slightly, and bend it I think?
yes exactly 🙂 I will have a spare frame, so I was thinking to maybe use it to make a canopy 🙂 If it’s not possible I’ll do it with a soda bottle, I’ve seen some video, it seems not that hard 🙂
Thank you David for the new screw in the kit 🙂
2ma, you can’t vacuum form G10. You could try googling vaucuum forming to determine which materials are suited for vacuum forming.
http://bit.ly/1Lzxi3f
Ok but I don’t want to vacuum it in fact 🙂
I found this video to image what I try to explain xD
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xbpw27_thermopliage_tech
Darn! I *just* received a pile of these screws. David, do you think the small heads would cause too much stress on the frame plates?
http://rtlfasteners.com/RC/r1.html
And to make things worse, the same supplier has some nice button head screws that I didn’t notice before.
http://rtlfasteners.com/RC/r1b.html
I’ve been flying those hex nuts (non buttonhead) for a while now without incident. You should be fine 🙂 If in doubt you could always put a washer underneath.
What size is the head of the screw? Look like they are really small?
While I’m pondering what to do about the screws, I found that the vendor also has flat head screws to be countersunk! I wonder if countersinking would weaken the holes too much.
http://rtlfasteners.com/RC/z.html
Jeez! Pimp screws. Pdb frame. PCB FPV post. My Tricopter is looking old. It’s from way back, 2014!
I have been looking for a black set forever. This is great.
Also is that a Mini Tri. It looks smaller than the V3?
Very nice looking. Too bad I just missed it with my order. LOL.
Looking very slick indeed. 🙂
Will the Mini tricopter have any special parts, or can I just order the new PDB-plates, Naze-plates and some motor mounts as soon as they are in stock?
It will use the same plates 🙂
Great news, really looking forward to seeing your design! 😀
I would love to see a “beaten up” version of the mini tricopter in one of the Rotor DR1 race episodes! Talk about product placement 😉
Yes ! as the Hunter’s pet you know ? Like very fast to catch other drone 😀
will the Servos be back in stock anytime soon?
Should be 2 weeks or so before they arrive
I can’t seem to reply to the sub-thread about the cap screws. The good news is that the vendor gladly accepted a return, and I ordered the button head screws to replace them.
Glad you found a solution 😀 Weird that the sub-thread didn’t work :/
It’s working now! Most likely I just didn’t see the nice orange Reply button.
Love all the new updated parts David, just one more thing I think you could look into fixing and that is the cf arms. The surface is to rounded and induces problems with tilting motor mounts.