It’s finally ready! Are you ready for a sleeker look, less cables, better crash resistance and more space? Than this might just be the thing for you.
When I first tried out the Naze32 board I wasen’t at all impressed with the yaw servo performance. It felt like an evil wet eel had control over it no matter what PID settings. So I contacted Stephen Amor, also known as Steveis (yes the guy that improved the KK2 firmware), together we set out to exorcise the possessed eel and get the board to perform as well as we knew the board was capable of. Now, finally, the code is ready and the Naze32 equipped tricopter flies like a dream! (The code is available on the product page, it works both on the integrated version and the standalone Naze32 boards.)
Now I know how frustrating and time-consuming moving over to a new type of flight controller can be, so I made things as easy as I possible could for you guys. Almost all the settings are already made for you. All you have to do is follow this guide and you will be up in the air in no time, with a minimal amount of frustration;
Lastly I would just like to thank you all for supporting what I do. Without you guys, non of this would be possible, so sincerely, thank you.
That looks fantastic David. As soon as i recover financially from my recent quad build, i will be getting one of these. Cant wait.
On a side note, do you know if you’re coming to Flite Fest yet? I would love to meet you there.
Wow! David, this is brilliant. Everywhere I go people always ask me about the V3. I bet I could sell them easily if I assembled and calibrated them for folks.
BTW are those 20Amp Afro Slims you are using?
I think it’s the afro slim yes 🙂 By the look of it 🙂 I have the same on my mini 🙂
Finally assembled my v3 yesterday with an OpenPilot Revo… now I’m in a real dilemma 😀 But hey… better be safe than sorry. *ordered* 😉
Would we e able to power the board from the esc wire? Also, do you think you would be able to sell this,the new tilt, and the power distribution board for a discount? (as a bundle)
He does have an option to add the PDB at a very reasonable price; the tilt is very well priced alone. I’m not sure he could make it much lower without limbo music playing.
Finally 🙂
Thank you for all your effort and the continueous support and development of your products.
This model is really becoming something impressive.
Congratulations David
Next step which would make this model even more impressive/clean:
– Some form of esc integration on the frame (Pin-Soldered or as part of frame)
-Voltage filter for fpv (integraded on PDB)
Again, congrats David.
This is awesome David, already clicked the buy button, can’t wait to try out the new cleanflight settings, such great value when you combine this with the PDB 🙂
Already have the Flip32+ flight controller and PCB, so no need to order one… but it is sooo sweet! Ordered one along with another PCB, servo and spare booms anyway! 😀
David, I’ve been having a terrible time trying to rid my copter of vibrations. Will using this frame with some vibrations cause flight issues? I’m completely out of ideas when it comes to reducing vibrations and want to know if this is something I should get or not. Looks amazing though!
hey, can you tell us what your specs are? (motors, props, etc…)
It’s the 4s setup with Sunnysky 980kv motors, Afro 30a ESCs, and I’ve had the best results (still not great) with the Multistar 9×5 props he recommends. I’ve tried other props (different brands and sizes) but they all made it worse. I’ve also balanced the motors and props the best I possibly can.
If your vibrations were caused by the tail servo lag, they will be reduced. I’ve just tested today, it’s solid. If these are from props or motors, you’re on your own! (:
Does this one include the power distribution or does that still need to be purchased separately?
In the shop you can chose to include or not a PDB, with or without the BEC 🙂
Already 3 times I watch this video but I can’t put a hand on my mini tri and set the new firmware…
Keep calm and “OUUUUHHHhhhh, Aaaaaah !”
amazing.
David, would you be able to add a bluetooth module to edit the p/i settings via smartphone?
Also, are you considering using the naze board with the barometer?
Thanks
Bluetooth can be connected to Tx, Rx, +5v & gnd pads.
I’ve already noted on the forum, but we definitely need a barometer inside the front spacer bay, covered with foam instead of plastic from inside. (:
Fantastic design and the assembly could be done by a kid thanks to your amazing buildvideo. Testflew it 30 mins ago and it is a complete new machine compared to the kk2 version. It is just do darn stable!
Five out of Five broken props for this!
Thanks David!
Got mine the other day but something is not right with it. I followed the instructions in the video and have experience building so I don’t think I’ve made a newbie mistake.
Having said that, I have the 5v coming off the bottom plate correctly but as soon as I connect the wires from this to the top plate, the voltage across the 5v connections on the bottom plate totally disappears and the top plate never gets power.
If I plug the top plate into USB I get the green and purple lights from the Naze as I’d expect. I can flash and configure the board totally as you’d expect and with the motors, servo and received connected, it all works fine (the motors will run but the servo won’t move, presumably as it needs external power as USB is not sufficient).
But whatever I do I cannot power the Naze from the bottom plate. I even tried taking the 5v from the bottom plate direct to the servo connector on the Naze pins (like you’d normally do with a separate Naze board) and then voltage over the 5v connectors on the bottom plate disappears down to 0v again. As soon as I remove the connection to the servo pins, the 5v immediately reappears on the connection on the bottom plate.
Help! What Am I doing wrong please? How do I get support on this or is this the place for support?
Doh – all now sorted. I must be getting old as there was a REALLY small short on my soldering of the pin connector that I’d not spotted and I don’t know why did not show up when I ran the multi-meter over it to test for shorts.
Anyway all now sorted and power is restored to the top board. I’m now tuning the settings and hope to fly it later on today.
Sorry I didn’t get to help you in time. Really glad you found the problem though 🙂
Good luck with the first flight!
Cheers,
David
My V3 kit with Naze32 arrived in Canada this morning. Bit of a learning curve for me, but I like to be challenged. Beautifully packaged, the whOle things feels like pretty good quality. Can’t wait to get building once I get all the Exterior parts togethe.
David, I am having a blast with my V2. Awesome job on the design! I did have a bit of an issue, I snapped one of my arms when my flight controller board went screwy and hit a fence at full speed. I have to order a new boom after the move. I did “patch it with a 10mm poplar dowel.
Anyways, on to my real reason for writing. I use APM modules and was wondering if you could integrate the HKPilot Mega Mini Flight Controller onto the frame like you did with the NASE controller?
Quick update guys in case it helps someone! I finished mounting and doing all the cabling today for the Tri.. It turned out my built-in Naze32 would NOT connect to Cleanflight, no matter drivers (which I had already installed as I have been flying Cleanflight for quite some time now).
I ended up reflashing the board with the Hercules software and it worked! Tomorrow hopefully test flight and then calibrating micro minimosd from multirotormania! greets
Hi David,
congrats for the new board. I´ve just got one and take a lot to arrive in Brazil.
While is traveling I have an external / standalone Naze32 and I´d like to try it. I did follow the procedures, download the right Hex code, copy the command lines into the GLI tab, but I´m having a hard time to calibrate the servo PID. Do you have, by any chance, the values that you consider the best for start to fly.
Thanks a lot.
Gersio
David, I also noticed yesterday when checking the CLI that you are not running Oneshot. Is that right? Are your PID settings not optimized for Oneshot125? Is there any reason why you are using OneShot125 capable ESCs but not making use of it?
The Looptime is also 2500 which is rather high to what most people use..between 1500 and 2000.. Thanks!
Will it be possible to connect a GPS/mag and a barometer to this board? It looks super amazing!
I have a big problem with the last step in the setup, configuring the yaw servo. When I first fly my tricopter everything is fine. It flies almost perfectly. Now I set D and I value for yaw to zero, fly again and trim the tricopter with the yaw trims on my Aurora 9 until it flies stable again. I ended at a yaw midpoint of 1482 went to the cleanflight menu set the servo midpoint (servo is on “normal”) to 1518 and the yaw trims on my TX to zero. And then, you cant believe it, the tricopter cant be flown anymore. When I try to start it, it flips to the front or to the right side. So I set everything back and now it flies almost perfect again. Does anybody have an explanation?? Maybe I have to subtract the 18 points the midpoint was away after yaw calibration??
Juergen
just finished my naze32 tri build. all went well other than a small error with the pins. (fixed that)
I flew the first flight and then did did the trim setup. All seemed fine. I then did a last test flight before the sun set. again, all good.
However, today, I took it to some open space and tried to fly it but after a few seconds in the air it just cut out and fell. New prop later, tried again and did the same thing. I tried different modes and no difference?
Does it matter what mode the trim setup is done? is that a likely cause of the random motor cuts?
Need help. I have not been able to enjoy it yet?
it seems like my BL heli 20A esc’s are programmed differently from the factory! One spools down freely whilst the other two stop dead when you close the throttle?
I tried to find instructions to program using the beeps but i cannot find the info anywhere.
Just ordered a USB programmer. Will try that unless anyone else has an idea.
I ordered from the recommended link. The description suggests they are flashed and ready to go? hmm?
Hmmm interesting. Yeah you need a USB programmer to change settings on the ESC’s. They ought to be flashed with the correct settings. DYS missed setting dampened light on that one :/ Sorry
The plot thickens..
Just flashed all three ESC’s with latest file on blheli rev 14.102 using my new USB linker.
No change with number 2 motor. It still free-wheels? the other 2 motors have immediate throttle response and stop immediately when you close the throttle.
I even erased the chip on the esc and re-installed the firmware. no change.
Also tried ticking the oneshot.
Any ideas?
Beep programming is pages 14-18 of ‘BLHeli manual SiLabs Rev14.x.pdf’, in the BLHeli Suite.
https://blhelisuite.wordpress.com/
Just learning myself, just got my Tri to hover last night, too dark to fly at 21:30.