Caught up! – Stock update

1bhkWoohoo! I’m finally caught up on orders! Thank you so much for your patience and support. So far 810 orders have been shipped out, and 583 tricopter kits have been sold.

By your requests, I’m working on getting a forum running so that we all can share experiences, setups and such with each other in a more convenient way. Hopefully it will be up very soon.

Today I inventoried the remaining stock and updated the shop. As I’m writing this, there are 30 tricopter kits in stock. May the odds be ever in your favor 😉

More parts are on their way, but I’m afraid the holidays might slow down the shipping companies. As soon as they arrive, I’ll update the stock again.

25 thoughts on “Caught up! – Stock update

  1. Hey David, i received my kid last Friday in good condition. Thanx and i will enjoy it!
    I am looking forward to the new tricopter forum.

    Merry Christmas from Holland!!!

  2. Hi there

    First things first: I recieved my tricopter I while ago. Thank you for your great work there, but:

    The Phillips screws are not very good. I had to replace them for some Allen-Screws.
    And:
    I have still problems putting all the wires between the bottom and top plate. When I fold the arms in the Y position there is only about 8mm space between the two booms. That’s hardly enough space for all the wiring, so please:
    Make the frame a little bit wider or: put the hole in the boom for the screw more towards the end of the boom.
    I can’t imagine how people got all the wires in there. Please let me know how you did this, maybe with some photos.
    Thank you and greetings from Germany.

    • Think of the Tricopter frame as a framework? It is a one-fits-all solution that works well overall.

      I have been playing with the frame for a while now, and done some modifications to the layout to meet my specific needs. You can easily drill the holes in the opposite end of the boom say 15mm from the end instead of 18mm to give you 6mm of extra space in the middle of the frame. This will cost you some stiffnes though. You can also make the frame 10mm wider in the front and 20mm longer to make more room for the wires, and even drill a Ø10mm hole in the middle to trace the wires through. Again you will sacrifice some stiffness and stability. I use 3mm plywood (model building quality) to make my prototypes before cutting the final form from G10 fiber glass or carbon fiber (expensive). A simple coping saw and some patience is all you need – and a 3D printer if you want to scale the 3D printed parts as well.

      • You are right, i could do all this, if i have the tools and the space for that.
        but because i have not, i bought a ready to build frame. dont get that wrong, i like the frame and the efford david put in, it was a little hard for me to complete the frame. and till today i haven not done it. that makes me sad.

        • What size of cables are you using? I didn’t have enough 18awg so I even have some cables in 16awg, but it still fits. I didnt use bulletconnectors like David in the video, that saves some space too. It can be done, it is a bit cramped but not in a way that should give you any problems.

          Getting the wires around the screw in the boom takes a bit of fiddling about too.

            • So, I did it. Maybe the wires where really to big. I used 1.5mm2. This is between 15AWG and 16AWG. I also used the hobbyking bullet to xt60 adapter and could not get all in between the to plates. So I routed them on the outside to the back where I fixed the xt60. Finally I have to say: the frame is very well made, only the Philips screws are not that good, as I mentioned, and annoyingly the KK2.0 board does not fit between the screws on the top.
              Tank you David.

  3. Another THANK YOU, David, ordered some spare parts on the 17th of December and they were delivered here in Colorado on the 23rd…can’t beat that. Merry Christmas!!!

  4. My Kit just turned up at the other end of the world in Tasmania, 1 day after my Hobby king order arrived, I can’t wait to start the build. Thanks David

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