[Terje]

Please note that upgrading between minor (major.minor.rev) versions will wipe all your settings, GUI and CLI. Remember to do a full backup (and CLI dump) before upgrading! – If you have a working system 🙂

Also I have noticed on prior upgrades, that settings that work on one version do not necessary work at all on the new version.

[Terje]

Well I won’t be able to start anything new before after Easter so there is no pressure on you to get finished 😉

Really looking forward to seeing yours fly!

[Terje]

No worries 🙂 Did go and buy some of those Diatone LEDs you linked to 🙂

[Terje]

I would go for this. Annoying isn’t it?

Seriously though, could you write in clear text what it is that you are considering buying and add a link to the clear text?

I would go for the Diatone 3-4S LED Decoration Board Strip Set For 250 Class Frame for simplicity and ease of installation.

[Terje]

Funny now that you mention it, when using my Mac I had the same response:

“no response from the bootloader, programming failed”

From my Cleanflight the other day. Ended up using my Ubuntu box instead. Afterwards I tried again from the Mac and now it does connect. Somehow the Mac did not connect on dev/tty.SLAB_USBtoUART. Are you connecting on dev/tty.SLAB_USBtoUART or dev/cu.SLAB_USBtoUART ?

– And the really silly question: Is your USB cable connected for sure? Are there lights lid on the board?

[Terje]

Happy birthday David! 🙂

[Terje]

A nice 3D printed Trifecta tilt! I like it 🙂

[Terje]

You need to flash it with Baseflight firmware prior to connecting to it. I know it sounds backwards. Use the firmware flasher tab to do so.

[Terje]

Attached 30% negative vs. 30% positive expo in Companion for FrSky Taranis. Negative expo doesn’t make much sense, since you would have high sensitivity around the deadband and low sensitivity at the endpoint. Normally you would want to be able to do minute adjustments around neutral stick and radical adjustments around the endpoint.

Attachments:

1. 

   negative-expo.png
   

2. 

   positive-expo.png
   

[Terje]

You mention that the tricopter flipped for no reason. Motor failure on the left or right side would induce this behavior. Check the ESCs for bad/cold solder points, that would be the most common cause for motor failure. I guess lost signal would do the same so checking the signal wires would be the next step.

[Terje]

Nobody deserves to be cut up. Again sorry for your injury, looks like it could have been a complete tragedy if the cuts had been a tad deeper. When testing my tri indoors the servo was fried by a wrong setting and sent a signal back to the controller, that spun up the motors. Wasn’t pretty, most damage to the tri though.

Folding up the triopter prior to connecting it, will also limit the personal injury – but of course cause damage to the tri if the motors spin up.

One little warning about the AUX ARM switch: It WILL disarm in mid-flight if activated. But it won’t arm again until the throttle is below threshold. (the tri will fall from the sky – personal experience) This can be circumvented by setting the CLI command disarm_kill_switch = 0. But then again you can’t be sure the tri is disarmed even if the switch is activated…

[Terje]

Sorry for your injury!

Assigning the ARM command to a AUX switch might save you from further (h)arm.

To be honest I also fiddle with Cleanflight while the props are on – but (almost) newer with the Lipo connected. I find the only time I need the lipo is when doing ESC and Tx/Rx calibration.

[Terje]

The solder pads on the distribution board are of really high quality, so just pre-solder the solder pads, then place the component and apply heat and you should be fine.

[Terje]

I started soldering up my distribution board last night. The SMC are a bit of a pain to solder and I am glad David is going to ship the distribution board with the components already soldered on 🙂 I will be finishing it up this week, and post some pictures of the build process (delayed because I have too much stuff on my frame). I ended up using liquid electrical tape on the exposed solder points (you might want to omit using it on the solder points for the arms, if wanting to do on-site repairs to the arms).

[Terje]

100 users on the map 🙂

[Author]

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