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    Baby Tricopter F3FC PDB
    Baby TricopterBaby TricopterBaby TricopterBaby TricopterBaby TricopterBaby TricopterBaby TricopterBaby TricopterBaby TricopterBaby TricopterBaby TricopterBaby TricopterBaby TricopterBaby TricopterBaby TricopterBaby TricopterBaby TricopterBaby TricopterBaby TricopterBaby Teaser

    BabyTricopter kit + F3FC racing and PDB – Bundle

    $ 109.00 $ 99.00

    Product Description

    This kit comes with the F3FC Racing flight controller and Power distribution board! Please note that camera/electronics/propellers and such that are shown in the completed build pictures are not included.
    Don’t forget to get a beeper and a XT60 pigtail

    A new beast has hatched. Measuring 170mm motor to motor and weighing only 280 grams with electronics and FPV gear! Using almost the same electronics pack as the Mini Tricopter (except for 5x4x3 propellers instead of 6×4.5), this means that the Baby Tricopter has a thrust to weight ratio of almost 7 to 1! (running a 4S 1300mAh, 150 gram battery).

    The Baby tricopter frame is made from 3mm thick matte twill carbon fiber, which makes it extremely stiff and crazy durable. The unibody design means a lot less screws, which saves weight and reduces complexity. Rather than weakening the main frame by cutting big slits for a battery strap, a separate 2mm thick bottom battery plate is used. This also allows you to easily adjust the center of gravity to get the optimal flight performance even when using heavy cameras mounted all the way forward on the top plate. You can also use 2 battery straps on the battery if you wanted to strap it down hard.

    The 2mm thick top plate has multiple slits cut for fitting a wide range of cameras, such as a GoPro or a Runcam 2. There is also a hole for mounting the SMA connector from your video transmitter. This this greatly reduces the load on your video transmitter during a crash. The top plate has slits for 2 zip ties which are used as receiver antenna mounts. Just slip some heatshrink over the antenna and zip tie and you have a flexible antenna mount that is practically indestructible. These slits are mounted at a 45° angle to reduce the risk of the antenna getting caught in the back prop during a crash.

    The baby tricopter uses the standard 30.5mm hole distance for mounting which fits majority of flight controllers available on the market today. Speaking of flight controllers, we have designed our own to be the perfect match for the Baby Tricopter. This low cost flight controller is running an F3 processor and has dedicated ports for the servo feedback wire found on our custom BMS-210 servo, which improves the tail performance vastly.

    To make wiring simple and clean we also designed a 30.5mm hole spacing power distribution board. This board has a built in current sensor to give you the the ability to over telemetry, or display on OSD or log, the current draw of your setup and the most awesome thing, mAh used out of the battery. This is by far the most accurate way of measuring how much juice is actually left in your battery instead of relying on the voltage, which greatly varies depending on the battery pack you’re using.

    This kit INCLUDES the F3FC Racing flight controller and Power distribution board.

    The Baby Tricopter uses 30mm standoffs to keep the frame as low profile as possible. This keeps the center of mass closer to the centerline of the thrust, giving better stability and flip/roll performance. It also looks super cool.

    The solution for mounting the FPV camera is very simple and straight forward. A recess is cut in the front of the frame to fit the aluminium bracket that comes with HS1177/Runcam swift type cameras. This recess keeps the camera from twisting, which is super annoying and pretty much made the aluminium bracket useless on other frames. This solution is the lightest solution and least complex we’ve tested and it works great.

    The Baby Tricopter uses the same indestructible tilt mechanism as the Mini and V4 tricopter. It’s mounted using zip ties, which acts as “mechanical fuses” to help protect the servo and motor in a hard crash.

    Included in the kit is a 140mm long crescent shaped diamond file so that you can smooth the edges of the carbon fiber if you wish to do so. This reduces the chance of a battery strap or zip-tie snapping and it makes the edges smoother and feel nicer to the touch.

    The setup procedure of this copter is the same as F3FC tricopter frame it just uses a different set of PID’s and tail parameters.

    It’s highly recommended to use the Baby Tricopter Electronics kit with the supplied PID’s as it can be quite difficult to get the parameters perfect on this small frame. Especially the tail.

    Kit includes:

    Specifications:

      • Empty weight: 96.7g with F3FC racing and BabyPDB
      • Motor to Motor distance: 170mm
      • Total size of the copter (without props): 200x200x43mm
      • Thickness CF Unibody frame: 3mm
      • Thickness CF top and battery plate: 2mm
      • FC mounting distance: 30.5mm
      • Recommended all upp weight: 280 grams with FPV gear and battery, Easily carries a GoPro.
      • Recommended motor size: 2204-2206
      • Recommended battery: 4S 1300mAh

    Other things needed:
    Baby Tricopter Electronics kit
    XT60 pigtail
    beeper
    A RC Transmitter and receiver (Such as the FRsky Taranis). Make sure the receiver supports PPM or SBUS (or serial connection)
    4S LiPo battery with a capacity of 1000-2200mAh. I personally fly on 4S 1300mAh 65C batteries.

    If you want to fly FPV:
    A video transmitter. I personally use the TBS Unify Pro 5.8GHz (Most countries only allow up to 25mW if you don’t have a HAM licence).
    A camera. I personally use the HS1177.
    A viewing device – a screen or video goggles. I personally use the Fatshark attitude HD, there are much cheaper options.
    A video receiver. Mine is built in to the goggles. You might need a standalone receiver. Make sure it operates on the same frequency bands as the video transmitter.
    Antennas, I use the TBS Triumph.


    This kit requires understanding of electronics, proficient skill in soldering and piloting skill. To fly multirotors, based on cleanflight/betaflight and similar, you will need to give constant stick input. The copter will not fly on it’s own (autonomously) nor will not hold its position in the air in standard configuration. It’s designed to give the best flight experience possible with great flying characteristics. A flight controller of the type this multirotor is using is designed to be felt as little as possible, this in order to let the pilot feel exactly what the copter is doing and to allow for precise flying without the feeling of fighting the flightcontroller.

    Although tough, the tricopter is not designed as a beginner platform, but to provide the absolutely best flight characteristics and performance. It’s possible to learn to fly on it, but I would recommend that you learn on a smaller platform such as the Eflite Inductrix or on a simulator before taking on a multirotor like this.

    It is possible to connect a GPS to this platform, but functionality in the firmware is still under development. It is not a turnkey solution and it will not perform like a DJI Phantom. Autonomous flight is possible but it will require a lot of research, tuning and time to get it to work well.

    Preconfigured Cleanflight Setup

    Update 28/9-2016: New version of Triflight released (0.5). Link down below updated. Also new PIDs.

    Warning! This setup is intended to be used with the recommended electronics for the tricopter. Especially important is using SimonK/BLHeli flashed ESC’s and a digital servo capable of 250Hz update rate (Such as the BMS-210MH) Using an analog servo with this setup file will result in a burnt servo!

    Download and install the USB to UART driver
    Download and install Google Chrome
    Install the CleanFlight App from the Chrome app store and launch it

    The tricopter will fly better with the propellers mounted the following (Copter seen from above): left – CCW, right – CW, tail – CCW. This will help in coordinated turns. It’s not a big deal if front motors are swapped, with left rotating CW and right CCW. It will only mean that you will be fighting it a bit more with stick inputs in the turns. However the CCW rotation of the tail motor is absolutely critical for proper triflight behavior. It will not fly well with the CW tail motor.

    Installation: Download the triflight_F3FC.hex file (This hex is made for the F3FC flightcontroller, To use another flightcontroller download the correct hex for your board here). Flash it to your board with the cleanflight-configurator as usual, but make sure to tick “full chip erase” box.

    If you’re using a windows machine you will need to install the Zadig program and convert the driver (See setup video for more info)

    Configuration: Setup your receiver (midpoints around 1500, min as close to 1000 from above as possible, max as close to 2000 from below as possible, also make sure to setup the deadband and yaw_deadband, as well as the board orientation (for integrated tricopter frame set pitch adjustment to 180), failsafe and any other features you would like to use. Next setup any mode switches you might want to use and I recommend setting the arm function to a switch. Calibrate the accelerometer on the flat surface (Mini Tricopter will need to have the cage sticking out over the table to be flat). Don’t forget to calibrate your ESCs also.

    The tricopter requires some configuration related to the tail servo. The most important is servo midpoint and endpoint adjustments. All the algorithms added for more stable and precise yaw control rely on the correct servo configuration, so follow the steps below with the most accuracy possible. It is highly recommended to use the Servo setup tool, which is included in the newer kits.

    Go to the Modes tab and setup a switch to activate the “Tail tune”. Hit save after you’re done.

    Make sure your tricopter is level on the roll axis. If you have calibrated your accelerometer on the level surface already, make sure it shows zero roll.
    You will need to connect the battery or some other source of flight power to your tricopter to continue, so make sure the propellers are off.

    Enter the tail tune mode while the copter is disarmed. Move the aileron stick right to setup the right direction throw of the tail. Use the yaw stick to tune the trow until the angle is precisely 40° (use the Servo setup tool). Move the aileron stick to the left and repeat. Then move the elevator stick up to set the midpoint of the servo. The tail needs to be level in relation to the tricopter frame at this point (use the Servo setup tool). Lastly move the elevator stick down. If the servo feedback wire has been connected the tail will now move back and forth a couple of times to measure and save the servo speed value. After the value is saved the beeper will sound the completed tone sequence. If no feedback wire is attached the completed tone sequence will sound and a virtual servo model will be used (which obviously isn’t as good as the real thing)

    You can do the setup using a protractor, but it’s less accurate and more difficult to do. You’re looking for the values for 50 (min), 90 (mid) and 130 (max) degrees from the horizon.

    Go to the CLI tab and paste the following to get the correct PIDs for the BabyTricopter running the stock electronics kit


    set rc_rate = 100
    set rc_expo = 70
    set rc_yaw_expo = 75
    set thr_mid = 50
    set thr_expo = 0
    set roll_rate = 45
    set pitch_rate = 45
    set yaw_rate = 80
    set tpa_rate = 0
    set p_pitch = 33
    set i_pitch = 22
    set d_pitch = 20
    set p_roll = 39
    set i_roll = 23
    set d_roll = 27
    set p_yaw = 144
    set i_yaw = 30
    set d_yaw = 80
    set p_alt = 50
    set i_alt = 0
    set d_alt = 0
    set p_level = 20
    set i_level = 10
    set d_level = 100
    set p_vel = 120
    set i_vel = 45
    set d_vel = 1
    set yaw_p_limit = 500
    set dterm_cut_hz = 95
    set tri_tail_motor_thrustfactor = 50
    save


    If you are running any other setup than the recommended electronics kit you will need to tune the PID’s and other parameters yourself.

    You’re almost done!. Mount the propellers and go outside. We’re now going to do an inflight calibration of the thrust factor value. Put the copter into a hover.
    Switch to TAILTUNE mode. You will hear a beeping battern from buzzer as a confirmation.
    Keep the copter in hover. The tuning process is only active when you don’t touch the pitch & roll & yaw sticks. You can of course use the sticks to keep the copter in place, the tuning process will continue when you release the sticks. FW will do beeps during the tuning (1 beep = decrease the ratio, 2 beeps = increase). Once tuning is done, you will hear same beeping pattern as when you first activated the tail tune mode, it will repeat every 2 seconds. Land and disarm. Do not turn off the tail tune until after you have disarmed or the values might not save.

    You’re done! Enjoy your first flight.

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